On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 18:14:38 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 4:14:01 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 07:58:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:



So I ordered one of these which should allow for a nice flush hang.

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/hanging-clips.html

A 2' length is twice the cost of the OOK cleat, but it'll be worth the
extra cost. The weakest point, regarding weight, is the attachment
of the cleat to the frame in the routed out channel. That is the area
where I will have the least wood, therefore the shortest screws. My plan
is use some type of adhesive along with screws just to be safe.

Cousin Hanging Monster
Why not use a piece of hardwood lagged to the wall with a dovetail
cut across the back of the frame - screw the frame to the hardwood
cleat with screws behind the floor flanges. Cut the hardwood cleat
with an angle to fit the dovetail cut.. You can blind dove-tail so it
doesn't show at the end of the frame.. Every bit as strong as the
hardware solution - and you can truthfully say you made it all
yourself.

I considered that, but I didn't want to remove that much of the frame. The
frame is made from 5/4 pine and I figure the cleat would have to be a
least 3/4. I'm sure that would have left enough wood, but I decided to go
with a metal cleat.

Besides, it's not like I made the pipe either. ;-)
1 half inch birch or maple cleat will hold around 100 lbs with no
problem. using a "fender washer" to spread the load of the rack/frame
the 5/4 pine will also be more than adequate - particularly with the
pipe flange carrying half of the load directly to the pine sitting ON
the cleat, and the flange holding the pine together so it can'r split
from the load.