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-MIKE- -MIKE- is offline
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Default Progress on the Nightstands

On 2/10/16 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 2:33:13 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/10/16 11:54 AM, Swingman wrote:


I remember those picture when BIN was first suggested to me. I used
it (still do) to prime and paint the cut edges of high grade MDF
panels. I was very impressed with how it soaked in, hardened, and
sanded smooth on the cut "end grain" edges. I think I could've
stopped at two coats but probably went to four on some edges,
simply because it dried so fast. It builds up nicely and obviously
takes paint as well as anything.


Just a comment, Mike. Hopefully a helpful one!

BIN is my favorite primer and has been my go to for many years. SW
has finally come out with a valid competitor, but that's another
post.

BIN is NOT a building finish. In fact, too much BIN is a very bad
thing. When applied properly, BIN is a semi-permeable finish that
allows the top coats of finish to penetrate it (also known as a
bondable substrate) and get to the surface underneath. It is
tempting to build with BIN because it sands so easily, but that is
not it's purpose.

In fact, Rustoleum/BIN recommends only one coat applied at about 3mm,
to finish out at around 1.5mm when dried. I had it on good authority
from someone I trusted that too much BIN would foul the top coat's
abrasion resistance (substrate too soft)and that it would also
diminish the ability of the top coat to bond as paint couldn't
penetrate the multiple coats of BIN. I didn't believe it.

However, back in the lab (several houses and years ago after spraying
out cabinets) I decided to try that idea out on scraps as it was
certainly easy enough to do. Now I believe it; take it from me, it's
true in both cases. Mike Marlow and I have discussed the value of
reading the application info as well as the MSDS many, many times. I
remember I went to the site, and there it was in writing that
Rust/BIN recommends only on coat of product.

If find yourself in a project where you need some pore/grain/rough
surface filling, I would strongly recommend this product.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/docu.../035777655733/

I have used it extensively. The amount of solids per gallon works
out to about 75% more (!!!!) than in BIN and part of its design
intent is to be a filler/primer. Like BIN solvent base, this has
titanium dioxide as its filler material, so it sands very well and
looks like BIN when applied. You can roll this easily, brush it or
spray it. If you spray, use a large tip gun and plenty of pressure
as this isn't a job for HVLP. Also, the lower viscosity and high
amount of solids can be a gun eater, so I shoot mine out of an
inexpensive CAS gun from HF, and it shoots very well.

Just a quick warning on the BIN solvent based product.

Robert


^^^^ MORE great info from this guy, here. ^^^^
Thanks, Robert, I didn't know about the one-coat thing with BIN.
It's never been a problem so far, but if I need to build again in the
future I'll try the SW.


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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply