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Terry Coombs[_2_]

Harry K wrote:
On Wednesday, September 16, 2015 at 8:46:57 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs
wrote:
wrote:
On Tue, 15 Sep 2015 21:24:15 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

rbowman wrote:
On 09/15/2015 07:24 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Well , as they say , no battle survives contact with the enemy
intact ... I was pricing block vs poured concrete today , with
the mistaken expression that block would be cheaper - what a
surprise , concrete is half the cost for materials only . Well ,
actually less than half . because I'm getting the floor too for
just over half .

Are you figuring in the forms? I worked on a volunteer project
where the guy in charge tried to cheap out and build forms out of
scrap laying around the site. He got a floor too when the forms
let go. We weren't prepared to strike it off, so it set up lumpy.

I'm researching using some 7/16 OSB , then reusing it for exterior
sheathing or maybe on the roof . Question there is what to use as a
release agent . Diesel has been suggested but not sure if the odor
will be a problem later . Floor will be poured first as a
monolithic (?) slab with the footings integrated into the slab . I
also plan to use a poly vapor barrier under the slab , thickness is
yet to be decided .

Florida is the land of the monoslab. Be sure to leave the footer
part of the slab free of the visqueen so you can use it as a Ufer
electrode and tie this into the ground electrode system.
If you are using a contractor to pour the walls, they will have the
forms. They usually use a commercial product for the release agent,
designed for the form material they use.

I've done a bit more research , found that the walls will cost
about the same either way . I was thinking of going with 4" walls ,
found that 6" is the minimum recommended . That makes the cost so
close that it's actually going to be easier to do the block . Also ,
doing block means I don't have to do a marathon mix-n-pour . I'm
probably being too anal about controlling costs , have to keep
reminding myself that a dollar spent now will probably save 3 later .

--
Snag

Block is a very flexible method but remember to add in the time and
cost to lay it. I've BTDT and would hire it laid next time. It also
is not as "sturdy" as poured. Very easy to pull a wall down once any
top weight is removed.

Harry K

It's going to be hard to remove the weight of half a house sitting on top
.... this cellar won't be entirely underground , bury depth will vary from
about 5 1/2 feet to just under 3 . There will be rebar every 4 feet and if I
can figure out how I might add some horizontal rebar about 2/3 up the wall .
I was talking to a neighbor and he's used that asphalt type waterproofing
and liked it . Water intrusion is not my biggest worry but why not take
steps now .
As far as time , the only thing I have more of than time is ... time .
--
Snag