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Uncle Monster[_2_] Uncle Monster[_2_] is offline
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On Wednesday, September 16, 2015 at 1:31:05 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 16 Sep 2015 13:18:51 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 16 Sep 2015 10:46:52 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 15 Sep 2015 21:24:15 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

rbowman wrote:
On 09/15/2015 07:24 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Well , as they say , no battle survives contact with the enemy
intact ... I was pricing block vs poured concrete today , with
the mistaken expression that block would be cheaper - what a
surprise , concrete is half the cost for materials only . Well ,
actually less than half . because I'm getting the floor too for
just over half .

Are you figuring in the forms? I worked on a volunteer project
where the guy in charge tried to cheap out and build forms out of
scrap laying around the site. He got a floor too when the forms
let go. We weren't prepared to strike it off, so it set up lumpy.

I'm researching using some 7/16 OSB , then reusing it for exterior
sheathing or maybe on the roof . Question there is what to use as a
release agent . Diesel has been suggested but not sure if the odor
will be a problem later . Floor will be poured first as a
monolithic (?) slab with the footings integrated into the slab . I
also plan to use a poly vapor barrier under the slab , thickness is
yet to be decided .

Florida is the land of the monoslab. Be sure to leave the footer
part of the slab free of the visqueen so you can use it as a Ufer
electrode and tie this into the ground electrode system.
If you are using a contractor to pour the walls, they will have the
forms. They usually use a commercial product for the release agent,
designed for the form material they use.

I've done a bit more research , found that the walls will cost
about the same either way . I was thinking of going with 4" walls ,
found that 6" is the minimum recommended . That makes the cost so
close that it's actually going to be easier to do the block . Also ,
doing block means I don't have to do a marathon mix-n-pour . I'm
probably being too anal about controlling costs , have to keep
reminding myself that a dollar spent now will probably save 3 later .

There is no way you can "mix and pour" that much concrete cheaper than
just getting a chain of redi mix trucks and a pump. This won't even be
a long day. It will be about 54 sq/ft of wall per yard at 6".
You usually get 10 yards on a truck.


The problem is that this is a small community and the local redimix
doesn't HAVE a pumper . Due to the location , no way to get a truck close
enough and I'm sure as hell not going to move 6 1/2 yards on concrete in a
wheelbarrow . Turns out that total cost for materials is pretty much a push
either way , and blocks will be easier for me in this case .
As Oren suggested , there will be some of the spaces filled with concrete
and reinforced with rebar . Moisture intrusion shouldn't be a problem as
long as the landscaping profile directs runoff away from the house . I plan
on waterproofing of some type for that portion that will be below grade ,
about half the total wall area .


Most of the pumps we see here are towed behind a pickup truck.
It is more price competitive to separate the pump from the truck.,
The pump and the truck stay near the street and they just drag a hose
to the work.
They do have some big snorkel trucks nut you usually see them on
commercial jobs.
I have pumped well over 100 yards of concrete here at the house and my
wife pumped thousands when she was building houses.


Your wife must be one very strong woman. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Wimpy Monster