I drove a wood stove for 17 years in the mountains.
We used various woods - some off the property but mostly from
the wood man.

Every now and then we would get some wood that was a bit green
and yes it would boil out the water dry out twist and pop (it was
Madrone naturally) and burn.

Water logged wood - on the muddy bottom (I use Poly pallets for my wood
stacks here, Had a nice Redwood crib I built with my brother there)
would take to much to heat to dry out and might cinder. But if one
had a good roaring fire green wood burns after a while. You don't want
a load of green wood, the fire might never get started. I was near that
and used 3 fire starting sticks to heat the unit hot enough to start a
fire. Ugly. It was after 2 weeks of constant pouring my path to the
wood bin was jelly and my on-porch rick was just consumed. I found some
wood on the lower deck that was destined to the wood lathe but got the
fire instead.

Martin

On 9/9/2015 5:56 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


Actually I have burned relatively green wood in my fire place that
leaks bubbling water from the ends and then drips to the bottom of the
fireplace. It burns slower but does burn.

Anyone who burns a wood stove will tell you that this is not true Leon. It
will smolder, but it will not burn. I've been burning wood for too many
years for anyone to tell me they can actually burn green wood. I guess it
depends on your definition of the word "burns".



You would not want to build fine furniture with wood that is cut to be
firewood. It would change shape quickly.
I repaired a coffee table several years ago that was make from walnut
that was not properly dried. It bowed and the joint broke open.

I agree with what you say and I tried to state that in my original thoughts,
but I still wonder about the whole notion of 1 year of drying time per inch
of wood.