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[email protected] fullofquestions@gmail.com is offline
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Default Proper way to determine which GFCI circuit breaker is the correctreplacement for the current breaker

On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 10:10:26 AM UTC-7, wrote:
All,

I have a pool light that is not up to code according to the pool guy. He says that I need to update the electrical box by adding a GFCI circuit breaker for the pool light circuit. So I opened up the electrical box and found the breaker. These are the details:

Circuit breaker: 15 Amp, D type HOM, 10kA 120/240V, Issue no. DP-4075, HACR Type. And there are some other markings that I'm not sure matter.

Main breaker load center: I'm not 100% sure though it is a square D homeline much like the following, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...MVP5/100197589

And here is my question, I purchased a replacement gfci from home depot and I would like to make sure that I got the right one. My understanding is that these breakers are very standardized so as long as it fits and it is by the same manufacturer all should be well. The only thing that I've heard is that it should trigger at the 5mA current threshold as opposed to 100mA. Below is the link to the home depot page for the GFCI breaker and here are a few facts about it.

Square D Model # HOM115GFICP
Homeline 15 Amp Single-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker
Specifications read: "Class A denotes a ground fault circuit interrupter that will trip when a fault current to ground is 6 milliamperes or more. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers and CSED devices."


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...FICP/100153356



Please let me know if I've done my homework and if I've purchased the correct GFCI breaker. I've looked at installation instructions online and it looks simple provided that you take proper precautions such as working on dry footing, and definitely making sure to turn of the main power.


Thanks!


As always thank you all for all of your help. I did a bit more homework yesterday and traced the whole circuit. This house is new to me and I've got a bunch of projects running in parallel. Anyway, here is how it is laid out:

Power line arrives on the roof and it is fed into the following box. I thought that this was a circuit breaker box but it turns out that it has a single breaker. I assume it cuts off all power.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzE...ew?usp=sharing

This box runs back to the roof and later back down into the original box that I asked about. In the picture below this line is coming from the top into the electric panel.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

And the wiring according to the labels are as follows:

1. Spare 2. empty
3. empty 4. Pool (must be the pump)
5. empty 6. empty
7. empty 8. empty
9. empty 10. Pool (must be the other pump for the solar heater)
11. empty 12. Pool lights
13. PLAGS 14. Spa
15. PLAGS 16. Spa
17. sub 18. AC
19. sub 20. AC

There is another panel inside the house that has the labels for Oven, microwave, dishwasher, etc. It looks fairly new. And it must be this panel that is being fed by terminals 17 and 19 above, I think.

So in order to replace the breaker I think that all I have to do is shut off the power at the first box and replace the breaker simply adding the white line anywhere to the neutral bar on the right, yes? Just a few more questions assuming the above is correct:

1. would you recommend testing this panel once I shut off power? I have a volt meter and I take it that I could test the points between the right bus and the right neutral. If the read is 0 then I'm good to go?
2. can you guys please confirm if the breaker that I got is the right one? I don't recall anyone confirming explicitly.
3. If the install goes to plan and the light works, is there any way to test if the light is grounded? The light is under water so pardon my lack of imagination but I'm not sure what else can be tested.

I plan on getting an electrician for some other projects but for now I think that if the first panel shuts off power I can do this project myself.

Thanks!