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DoN. Nichols[_2_] DoN. Nichols[_2_] is offline
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Default Metal Cutting Bandsaw

On 2015-07-31, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Rex fired this volley in news:c0a38c7e-aa25-47d7-
:

Those little 4x6s are the best $200 you can spend in a small shop.


AMEN! I have a much larger Kalamazoo, but the little MSC 4x6 over in the
corner has done the lion's share of cutoff work.


Ah yes. The MSC has a real motor on it, unlike some of the
others which have the same size housing, but a very short stator and
rotor, so they burn out fairly soon. (Check with a hand on the motor
during a long cut. If it gets too hot to keep your hand on, plan on
replacing it. ;-)

Also -- the MSC version has some nicely forged blocks to hold
the guide bearings and their eccentric adjusters. Some of the less
expensive versions have the same part made of bent steel, and tend to
bend under chip under the roller loads, so they have to be re-adjusted
more often. I'm still using the same setting on my MSC one. Perhaps
15-20 years old by now.

Bob... spring for some decent blades. I get the Starrett bi-metal 64-
1/2" bands from McMaster. They last, and over their useful life, are
about the same price as the junky Chinese ones.


Or a few rolls of good blade stock of various pitches (all have
to be 1/2" to work on the drive wheels of that design -- no crowned
rubber tire on them to handle various widths without squishing the teeth
out of set.

One thing to remember is that when you tighten it with a new
blade, you really need to tighten it as hard as you can by hand to get
near the right tension. Run it too loose and you will lose blades
quickly.

I seldom break one. They're usually dulled or have lost their set, and
get replaced for those reasons.


Enjoy,
DoN.

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