'U'U clips, spire clips/nuts, what is max thickness of flangethey fit over?
MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 21:13:29 +0000, Capitol
wrote:
MM wrote:
On Sun, 08 Feb 2015 18:40:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In ,
wrote:
I have a domestic paper guillotine (BABS Premier 14) that I want to
fix to a wooden shelf. There is a flange each side with a hole on each
corner. Previously, I just used M6 bolts and nuts through the holes
and the shelf, but now I want to hang drawers underneath the shelf and
the bolts/nuts would get in the way.
Hence my idea of using spire nuts like the ones used extensively in
the auto industry. I'd drive Posidrive screws from underneath the
shelf into the spire nuts. If the screw heads were countersunk, they
would not get in the way of the drawers at all.
But thinking back to my days as a motor fitter, these spire nuts were
intended for *body panel* steel, which isn't very thick. The steel
flanges on the guillotine are 2.5mm thick. Is that too thick for a
spire nut?
Why not use pronged T nuts into the underside of the shelf? They only
protrude about 2mm below the shelf and the majority of the tread is within
the shelf. You could rebate them in flush if needed. They stay in place
when the bolt is removed. Come in most common sizes - from Toolstation,
etc.
I can't get to the inside of the guillotine to insert/tighten bolts or
screws. (The guillotine is like a metal box with the knife down one
side and L-shaped flanges underneath which have the fixing holes.
Trouble is, the flanges both point INwards. Once the 'tine is on the
shelf, the L-flanges with the fixing holes are hidden. I can't get at
them.)
MM
Maybe I've missed something here, but why not use spire clips? These
can be slipped over a flange and will stay in place and can be fixed
with M4 say screws. Stretching a spire clip over 2mm edgingis quite
feasible IME. If the holes are in the wrong place, just drill some new
holes.
Er... see my first post in the thread!
MM
Rivnuts.
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