By output do you mean the drain or collector terminal ? As opposed to the emitter or source that is. If that is the case it is on the end on these.

Your link to the PDF on that was no good from here. I found another one though at

http://products.semelab-tt.com/pdf/magnatec/BUZ900P.pdf

which indicates the drain at pin three

I assume you ****ed up on the typoing and forgot the word "not". I can't bitch, I am way worse.

Anyhow, upon further investigation I find the relay has a bad connection which has quite obviously arced. I mean QUITE obviously. That is the side that is foill down so I couldn't see it before. There is no bottom access, it is built in a pan.

So I scraped that up and resoldered it and just for the hel of it I thought I would check resistances of the outputs.

On one set of five it reads a hundred and some ohms gate to source. The reading is about fifteen ohms on the other five. At this pont I am almost sure this thing is not going to run. And it doesn't. There is still no offset and the relat kicks in, but of course there is no sound. And again, yes I check it on the board at the output coil and make sure it still has input.

Obviously what happened is this thing was actually running but that conectio started going bad and the inductive kick fed back into the outputs and breached a gate.

I gave him the estomate which was an ammendable ballpark figuring those decices at $10 each and I would be changing at least five of them. And lavor is not the cheapest either because it is a PITA. Well I have seen worse but it is a two sided plated through board so I ain't doing it for twenty bucks.

So he abandoneed it. Said keep it. I don't know what to do with it othr than feed my subwoofer which is the only thing in the house that can handle that much power. It handles 250, this thing, hmm, one channel driven it ...

I only saw the rails on the scope, estimating 95 volts. Says 1,200 watts on the back and has bridged mode, umm, maybe 400 watts ? Or 350 ?

But you said it looks like a cheap amp. Really ? All I know is it didn't fry because of being underbuilt. the solder connection is one thing, but ho old is it ? It doesn't even have a toroid transformer. Twenty years ?

So I dunno, maybe I'll make it pure DC and use it as an instrumentation amp.. I'm sure I can disable the protection and find probably one capacitor to jump out. It does have a DC offset control so it should work.