On 1/27/2015 6:52 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Max" wrote:


isn't too bad. But whenever I do a dado, etc...bad news. So...is
there any solution?
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

That's why table saws have stacked dado sets available.

Does a faster, cleaner way of doing the job.

Lew
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"Max" wrote:


I agree that it's "cleaner" but,for me, it ain't faster. If I could
remember which spacers to use to get a true 23/32" it might be
faster but putting a 23/32" bit in a plunge router and running it
along a purpose made straight edge is pretty quick. I can do it a
lot faster than I can change blades on the saw never mind figuring
out which spacers to use.
'course cleaning up the dust afterwards takes a little time too.
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Sounds like you are making a lot of extra work.

If I were to do a 23/32" dado, I'd set the stacked dado to 1/2"-5/8"
(it's not critical as long as it is greater than 1/2 of the 23/32"
final size.)

Set the fence so that the final cut edge of the dado on the right edge
is closest to the fence.

Run the dado thru then reset fence so that the dado will cut the final
edge
on the left side.

I'm not that good of a fence resetter. And I do have home made straight
edges for all the thicknesses I've encountered for dadoes. I cut a piece
of 1X2 and run it through the jointer to make sure it's straight then
fasten it in the center of a piece of masonite. Run the router over one
side for one size dado (bit) and the other side for a different size. I
have several "straight edges" made thataway.

Since the stack dado is less than 23/32", the 2nd cut removes
only the exact amount of material req'd.

I do that for the grooves in a frame and panel door. Set the blade
height for however deep I want the panel in the frame. No blade changes.

Run the piece again to complete the dado.

You're done, time for a beerG.

Lew


But, but, you're making two cuts. And you have to reset the fence. I
only make one and it's precise. I use a caliper to measure the board
thickness and use a bit of the size I need.