"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 19:28:58 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
NH has salted roads and yearly inspections. When I told the
inspecting
mechanic that the line had failed he showed me a rack of flared
repair
sections to fix it, but said do NOT use compression fittings.
I cut out the rust-through and a suspicious spot caused by the
adjacent clip and put in a 20" premade section today, with enough
of a
service loop to cut off and redo the flares if they leak. The
spliced
line still fits neatly in the clips. I'll be rained/snowed out of
working on it this weekend but at least the line is sealed again.
Be sure to secure that service loop so vibration doesn't come into
play. That gooey cork/tar looking stuff they put around A/C low
pressure lines works well. It's sticky and stays put in heat.
http://tinyurl.com/nw88re6
The U is only a few inches long and will be restrained at one end
where it exits the plastic shield, after I bleed and leak-test the
line. On the other side the well-braced parking brake cable is
available to support the added mass of the coupler. One of the
mechanics I talked to suggested to pad a replaced line with
windshield washer hose and tie-wrap it to something nearby if
duplicating the factory routing would require too much disassembly
of rusted components.
Neither the factory nor the Haynes manual give much advice on
replacing brake lines. This may be one of those skills you are
expected to learn in person from the shop foreman.
I feel sorry for mechanics who have to learn how to diagnose
complex electronics. The initial drop-out rate at the Army
electronic repair school was quite high during the Volts - Amps -
Ohms - Watts section.
-jsw
If you cover the line make SURE it has some type of sealer or
protectant under the cover. Any moisture under the covering will
increase the speed that it rusts.
I like using alloy lines but if the customer says no I will install
steel and coat everything I install with a coat of sealer. I spray
the rest with a "custom" mix. Lanolin, beeswax and bar/chain oil,
mix it together while heated, brush on and let harden. Basically the
same type of item as Waxoyl or Fluid film for a LOT less $$$. I also
use it on body panels.
--
Steve W.
The places where I sprayed LPS-3 through the large holes in the cover
shield didn't rust.
This isn't mine. The water-trapping clips are in the center of the
picture where the plastic fits tightly against the metal.
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC00786.jpg
This is the problem area at the rear of the shield. Mine doesn't look
as bad.
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/DSC00794.jpg
The thread these came from:
http://honda-tech.com/honda-element-...w-bad-3064081/
Between the retaining clips the lines still have the factory paint, or
the shiny plating where I've scrubbed it off to check them. Most of
the clip-covered areas showed only white corrosion from the plating,
like his but not as much. The badly rusted area was in the splash zone
ahead of the rear wheel, and covered by a short unperforated section
of the shield that the photo doesn't show.
-jsw