"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 19:28:58 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


NH has salted roads and yearly inspections. When I told the
inspecting
mechanic that the line had failed he showed me a rack of flared
repair
sections to fix it, but said do NOT use compression fittings.

I cut out the rust-through and a suspicious spot caused by the
adjacent clip and put in a 20" premade section today, with enough of
a
service loop to cut off and redo the flares if they leak. The
spliced
line still fits neatly in the clips. I'll be rained/snowed out of
working on it this weekend but at least the line is sealed again.

Be sure to secure that service loop so vibration doesn't come into
play. That gooey cork/tar looking stuff they put around A/C low
pressure lines works well. It's sticky and stays put in heat.
http://tinyurl.com/nw88re6

The U is only a few inches long and will be restrained at one end
where it exits the plastic shield, after I bleed and leak-test the
line. On the other side the well-braced parking brake cable is
available to support the added mass of the coupler. One of the
mechanics I talked to suggested to pad a replaced line with windshield
washer hose and tie-wrap it to something nearby if duplicating the
factory routing would require too much disassembly of rusted
components.

Neither the factory nor the Haynes manual give much advice on
replacing brake lines. This may be one of those skills you are
expected to learn in person from the shop foreman.

I feel sorry for mechanics who have to learn how to diagnose complex
electronics. The initial drop-out rate at the Army electronic repair
school was quite high during the Volts - Amps - Ohms - Watts section.

-jsw