"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
A 3/16" (0.191") brake line on my Honda rusted through from the
outside and the dealer wants $1200 to take the front and rear apart
enough to thread a one-piece new one in.

What should I watch for when I splice in a repair section with
double-lap flare fittings? Advice on the Net is contradictory and
not too helpful.

TIA
-JSW

Many imports have bubble flares instead of the double flares common
on domestics.

Go get a length of Nicopp or Cunifer (same alloy different
companies) It's great stuff, bends easy, flares easy, doesn't rot.
It's more money than steel but less than stainless which is a PIA to
work with.

Not hard to run the line yourself with this stuff.

OR you could go with the precut sections of steel and just couple
them with the correct parts.

--
Steve W.

I want to know my options before I ask the inspection shop what they
will accept, and have several good examples to show them I can do it.
They trusted me to replace bad ball joints and brake rotors myself and
helped with the Ford's intermittent electrical problem.

It looks like coupling in a new section is possible if I can make good
flares in the vehicle's tubing. So far I've made decent practice ones
on replacement line with the cuts squared and chamfered in the lathe,
to isolate the potential problems. I have a mini tubing cutter that
cuts cleanly and will fit the tight space but I don't want to wear it
dull. Double flaring is turning out to be tricky and error-prone like
welding.

Here's an example of mixed reviews on the next step up in tooling:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=113006

The vehicle line is straight for several feet in front of the
rust-out, so I could cut out a test section and try different tools
and techniques like annealing on it.

-jsw