"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:21:16 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:17:01 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:40:30 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

A 3/16" (0.191") brake line on my Honda rusted through from the
outside
and the dealer wants $1200 to take the front and rear apart
enough to
thread a one-piece new one in.

What should I watch for when I splice in a repair section with
double-lap flare fittings? Advice on the Net is contradictory
and not
too helpful.


HAH! This IS the "net". Do you (necessarily) expect any better
advice
here than you'd get elsewhere on the net?

(This is not to criticize anyone's advice... only to point out
that this
is just as unreliable a resource as anything else you might pick
up on
"the net")

Unless you've been watching the group, and you have a notion of
who's full
of BS and who isn't. Strangely, must of the folks who answer
questions
here give pretty good advise, IMHO.

When I ask for advice on the net I generally pay attention to all of
it,
but only follow the bits that make sense after I think about them a
bit.

Here's the best, which I think you posted: Don't screw with brake
lines. Do not splice brake lines. Do not jury-rig brake lines.

If you had an accident and they found out you'd done something like
that, I doubt if the insurance company would pay.

--
Ed Huntress

Is standard hardware made for the purpose considered jury-rigging?

Today I got a quote of $500 to replace both rear lines with
copper-nickel which is flexible enough to thread through the tight
gaps where the factory lines go. Does anyone have experience with it?

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwoo...s-brake-lines/
"Copper brake lines are not advised, but Copper-Nickel hybrid lines
are available that won't corrode and will bend easier than mild or
stainless steel lines."

-jsw