On 01/02/2015 10:24 AM, RonB wrote:
....

The table is solid red oak.

I have stripped a lot of old furniture and understand the
elbow-grease factor. That is why I was concerned about the deep
bedded pigment. I will also be using a real stripper as opposed to
"green." I was planning on using a toothbrush on the legs, but based
on comments here, I suspect that is what I might end up using one on
the smooth surfaces too. Steel wool can be as difficult to get out of
open grain woods as pigment residue.

Oxalic acid? I was thinking bleach but had not come across that yet.
Based on your comment and some more Google that is probably the way to
go. You mentioned neutralizing the stripper. I have washed thoroughly
with spirits in the past, is there a better way of doing that?

I avoid steel wool like the plague excepting for very rarely buffing
out. On raw wood, particularly as you note, porous ones it is indeed
more trouble than possible to gain. Also, particularly w/ oak and the
tannic acid, leave any overnight in a grain and some dampness and you've
got the black stain to add to the joy...

For working stuff out of the pores since you've got solid wood to
refinish, brass or s-steel bristle brushes are the cat's meow...I use
welders' brushes in various forms/sizes; they're available in toothbrush
format that can be handy...

As for the crevices in the legs and the like, dental picks, gouges,
"anything that works"...be creative.

Oxalic acid will remove color from the base wood as well; test
_carefully_ in inconspicuous place(s) to ensure you don't take it too
far, particularly since you're attempting to match some other pieces.
If it were the table on its own, wouldn't matter so much; it'd just come
out as it did and undoubtedly be satisfactory. If you take all the
natural reddish hues out and try _then_ to match other; may be more
difficult.

As for the "neutralizing" recipe, simple--read (and follow) the
instructions for the particular product you use...

--