"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Oct 2014 09:13:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


After it arrived I ran a bead on 24 gauge steel. It welded it OK
without melting through but the heat-affected, scaled zone on the
back
side was much larger than I like.

-jsw

Then you were going too slow. Afterall...24 ga is THIN ****.

Did you use a copper backing plate on the backside of the weldment?

The J28 torch is what is called an "aircraft" torch..suitable for
aircraft mechanics....

Its not much different than a standard other than smaller

a 000 tip should allow you to weld .023 material. You may have to
"soften" the flame and turn the pressure down far more than you
would
a bigger torch...but remember..on thin ****..you cant daudle around.
And having a copper backplate often helps. Least..does for me, but
then Im not a weldor either. Just a hack

Gunner, who has a Marquette Aero-Jet aircraft torch half the size of
your J28
http://www.weldinghistory.org/whfold...s/torches.html

(see the first torch) with a handful of tiny assed brazing tips and
of
course the cutting head..none of which Id fire up without a total
replacement of all the o rings (6 in the handle alone)

Gunner

The potential welding job was on a rear fender lip where the curved
inner liner is too close to the outer body for reasonable internal
access, or to remove all the factory caulking. I gve up on welding and
filled the rust hole with J-B Weld, then tediously carved the internal
curves where the trim strip fits with needle files. The rusted area on
the other side had been larger and I MIG welded a steel patch.
-jsw