"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in
message news:IZGdnULFVopIgULOnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

The other day my truck had a no-start problem that turned out to be
a poor cable connection at the battery clamp that I'd missed during
an otherwise thorough spring electrical cleanup. I found it -after-
I had removed, disassembled and thoroughly checked the starter.

The corrosion hidden inside the cable clamp still allowed about
30 - 40 Amps, not enough to spin the starter motor with the Bendix
engaged but the voltages were correct everywhere that was easily
accessible, the solenoid clicked and the battery dropped to 11.5V.



Suggest next time feel the cables and connectors first, when this
happens usually something gets hot.

When something electrical malfunctions my experience-conditioned
reflex is to mentally photograph the symptoms and then quickly shut
off before something gets hot enough that the expensive magic smoke
billows out. I use the IR thermometer or as a last resort my hand to
chase less dire emergencies.

I did jump the relay with a screwdriver and heard the starter click
but not chatter, the usual indication of insufficient current from the
(12 year old) battery. Mostly I checked meters set up on the cowl to
show voltages and current while I turned the key. Seeing up to 40A in
the cable to the starter and still 11.5V at the clamps mislead me. In
the spring I had thoroughly cleaned, labelled and Ox-Garded all engine
compartment electrical connections (except this one).

I'd already rebuilt the starter once with new brushes and kinda
suspected the solenoid contacts, which had eroded away on my Accord
and been built up several times with brazing rod . The factory manual
gives 75A for the no-load starter current but doesn't break out how
much of that the solenoid coil draws.
-jsw