Hi Arch,
I think you know the answers already, but I'll bite anyway.

First, what makes a Glaser cost so much.
Well, they are made of very high quality materials in the US by a
talented and knowledgeable engineer who has also been an active
woodturner and thus understands the design and use of what he is making,
strives for excellent quality control and wishes to make a decent living
from his efforts. Specifically, the formed anodized shot peened aluminum
handles of his design cost far more than wooden handles, the CPM steels
are very expensive and somewhat more difficult to work, and even
features like the lead shot add to the materials cost and shipping weight.

Second, what makes a Glaser worth so much. The big reason has not so
much to do with any single or few specifics, as it has to do with the
fact that many specific factors are brought together in one synergistic
package. But to the specifics:

1. The shaft materials are exotic CPM steels mostly A-11 and V-15 (a few
things are available in less exotic M-4) which have excellent wear
resistance and thus edge retention (the Hamlet 2060 only approximates
the A-11 in this regard and nothing currently available touches the
V-15). You will spend less time going back to the grinder, and/or will
spend more time operating with a sharp edge (in large part due to the
very high Vanadium content). The fine dispersal of carbide and other
inclusions in the CPM steel allow a very refined edge to be established.
Jerry is an aerospace engineer who has a very sophisticated
understanding of tool steel alloys and has given considerable thought
and experimentation to what steels make the most sense, rather than just
buying the latest steel some steel mill salesman has been promoting.

2. Usually not mentioned, but I find the A-11 and V15 shafts to be
stiffer than HSS M2 and M4 shafts, which I find very desirable when
working with smaller shaft diameters such as 3/8 OD gouges. They are
also shot peened which reduces stress and provides an attractive finish.

3. The shafts come with a V shaped flute that is very well suited for a
swept back grind in that they allow for a narrow nose for detail work
and allow more mass behind the primary working area of the swept back
edge than more U shaped designs. The flutes are long and thus (with the
wear resistant steel) offer extended tool life. The flutes could be
better polished, but this is easily done and maintained using the large
and small Henry Taylor slipstone set that is available from Craft
Supplies (the small works perfectly for the bowl gouges, the large for
the shallow gouges).

4. They come sharp and well ground with what most find to be a desirable
geometry which in the bowl gouges is very similar to the Ellsworth grind
(60 degree bevel, roughtly 3/4 inch wings). The geometry is easily
modified to flatter or longer wings with little effort.

5. The handles are formed and for my hands have a nice diameter, the
length is well matched to the shaft size, the shot peened surface offers
a nice unobtrusive gripping surface, and the color anodization does make
them more interesting and easier to identify and prevent the aluminum
from staining your hands and clothing. I find them just right in
temperature for my climate, but for those who live where they might
become very hot or cold, either wear gloves or it is easy to put a light
cover of grip tape over them.

6. The lead shot fill in the handles dampens vibration, creates an
inertial resistance to small knocks, and offers what I find to be a very
nice balance (indeed, I can't stand to use wood handled tools anymore as
I find them so ridiculously front heavy). You can reduce the quantity of
lead shot if you would like to fine tune the balance for your sensibilities.

7. The attachment of the shafts to the handles is exceptionally
secure,unobtrusive (no set screws to lossen or stick out like on other
metal shafts) but allows for relatively easy reuse of the handles with a
replacement shaft when the original shaft is worn out (which you may
find very hard to do).

There is more, but this covers what readily comes to mind at the moment.
Again, it is not necessarily so much that any single characteristic is
so overwhelmingly desirable or unique, but that all of these
characteristics come together in one tool which becomes "more" than it's
component parts.

If you are considering two, I'd recommend the 3/8 inch bowl gouge in
A-11 and the 5/8 inch bowl gouge in V-15 or A-11. He makes great shallow
and detail gouges, but I think you will appreciate the special Glaser
characteristics the most in his bowl gouges. I really like the 3/8 inch
for small scale and detail work, I really like the 5/8 for roughing out,
big bowls and hollow forms. I find the 5/8 to work great for shear
scraping (second only to the 3/4, but the 3/4 is really overkill for
most mortals). If you only get one, then I suggest you split the
difference and get the 1/2 inch as it will work well for a lot of
turning and be adequate for the size work you will do on the Nova.

Anyway, those are the thoughts that come to me right now, but I'm sure
I'm leaving out at least one other reason why the Glasers can be so
desirable.

Lyn





Arch wrote:
It seems to me from opinions posted to turning groups and from eyeball
chats that Glaser gouges are clearly superior. The only reasons given
for buying the 'just as goods' instead of a Glaser appear to be the
price and being able to afford three 'just as goods' instead of one
Glaser.

As a product of the great depression, I've always found difficulty in
justifying going absolutely first class, and I have turned many 'not
quite as good' (some say "not nearly") pieces to prove it. ;(

Well folks, I am resolved in 2004 to recover from chronic frugal 1930's
disease, and buying a Glaser or two should be excellent initial therapy.
Two? Good grief, I'll overdose, but my wife nags me at my age to buy,
buy, buy instead of saving mean. I hope to avoid side effects such
as the feared 'I could have had three .....'s syndrome all the while
turning out more 'not so good's.

So please will somebody explain just what it is that makes a Glaser
worth so much.
The flute shape? The factory grind? The metal? The colored handle's
shape and those buckshot? The Glaser name? The loyality and
accomplishments of Glaser users? The 'at that price it must be the best'
refrain, along with the 'you get what you pay for' mystique? All of the
above? None of the above? What? A bit of cash left after taxes is
burning my pocket. Help! Arch

Fortiter,