On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:53:29 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:20:13 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:

trader_4 wrote:



On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:



On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:







My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.















I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:















As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.















In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)















I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.















The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.















Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?







































Maybe you got a lighted button?















Just get a button that is nothing but a switch







That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would



be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just



a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,



but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with



a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.







Hi,



There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small



light bulb. Latter one will work OK.



Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would

think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.

LED draws very little current.



Hi,

Drawing more current so solenoid can't activate. LED current draw is

very small. I went thru same experiment with our rotary gong type

church bell chime.

The problem is not that the solenoid can't activate. He said the problem
is that the chime activates as soon as he connects the pushbutton, without
the button being pushed. That indicates the light is causing too much
current to flow when the switch is open. The bulb or LED is in series
with the switch. I would think a bulb is going to use more current to
generate light than an LED.

And what you posted makes no sense anyway. When you push the button
the bulb is bypassed, ie shorted across and it's out of the circuit.
It momentarily goes out. The solenoid then gets full current, no?