My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.

I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:

As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.

In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)

I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.

The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.

Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?

On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.

I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:

As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.

In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)

I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.

The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.

Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?




Maybe you got a lighted button?

Just get a button that is nothing but a switch

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:

My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.



I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:



As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.



In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)



I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.



The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.



Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?









Maybe you got a lighted button?



Just get a button that is nothing but a switch

That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would
be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just
a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,
but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with
a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.

philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual
plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before
the button broke.

I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what
stumps me:

As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on
the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at
contact- without the actual button being pressed.

In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any
metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or
each other)

I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement
button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing
happens with second button.

The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings
when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.

Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?




Maybe you got a lighted button?

Just get a button that is nothing but a switch
Hi,
+1.

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:16:20 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo* wrote:

On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:



My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.







I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:







As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.







In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)







I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.







The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.







Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?



















Maybe you got a lighted button?







Just get a button that is nothing but a switch



That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would

be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just

a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,

but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with

a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.

Thanks Philo and Trader... the new buttons are lighted- nowhere on the net did that detail come up!
I'll post later when I try a new one.

trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:

My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.



I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:



As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.



In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)



I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.



The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.



Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?









Maybe you got a lighted button?



Just get a button that is nothing but a switch

That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would
be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just
a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,
but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with
a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.

Hi,
There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small
light bulb. Latter one will work OK.

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:20:13 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:

On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:



My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.







I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:







As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.







In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)







I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.







The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.







Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?



















Maybe you got a lighted button?







Just get a button that is nothing but a switch



That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would

be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just

a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,

but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with

a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.



Hi,

There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small

light bulb. Latter one will work OK.

Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would
think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.
LED draws very little current.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 10:30:20 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:



There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small

light bulb. Latter one will work OK.

Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would
think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.
LED draws very little current.

That sounds like a good argument, but try this. Lighted buttons used to
work. They were all real small light bulbs. Something changed. Ah,
the new design, used on some, uses an LED. Those are the one the
doorbells weren't designed for.

trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:20:13 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:

On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:



My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.







I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:







As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.







In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)







I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.







The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.







Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?



















Maybe you got a lighted button?







Just get a button that is nothing but a switch



That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would

be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just

a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,

but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with

a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.



Hi,

There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small

light bulb. Latter one will work OK.

Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would
think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.
LED draws very little current.

Hi,
Drawing more current so solenoid can't activate. LED current draw is
very small. I went thru same experiment with our rotary gong type
church bell chime.

"SKrapp" wrote in message ...
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.

I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:

As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.

In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)

I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.

The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.

Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?

Has to be a short somewhere. Solenoid/bell won't ring if it's an open circuit.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual
plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before
the button broke.

I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what
stumps me:

As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on
the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at
contact- without the actual button being pressed.

In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any
metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or
each other)

I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement
button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing
happens with second button.

The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings
when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.

Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?




Maybe you got a lighted button?

Just get a button that is nothing but a switch
Hi,
+1.
reverse the wires and try. If it still chimes without pushing the
button get a simple non-lighted button. I'm assuming this is an
electronic chime - only the RIGHT lighted button will work.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:53:29 -0600, Tony Hwang wrote:

trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:20:13 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:

On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:



My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.







I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:







As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.







In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)







I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.







The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.







Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?



















Maybe you got a lighted button?







Just get a button that is nothing but a switch



That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would

be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just

a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,

but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with

a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.



Hi,

There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small

light bulb. Latter one will work OK.

Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would
think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.
LED draws very little current.

Hi,
Drawing more current so solenoid can't activate. LED current draw is
very small. I went thru same experiment with our rotary gong type
church bell chime.

You seem to be agreeing with Trader and disagreeing with your previous
post. But you don't say so and I can't tell for sure.

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:53:29 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:20:13 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:

trader_4 wrote:



On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:09:23 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:



On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:







My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.















I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:















As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.















In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)















I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.















The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.















Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?







































Maybe you got a lighted button?















Just get a button that is nothing but a switch







That would be my suspicion too. Odd though that a chime would



be incompatible with a lighted button. The old ones were just



a solenoid and that should work. The new ones can be electronic,



but you would think they would all be made to be compatible with



a lighted button. But it sounds like that's what the problem is.







Hi,



There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small



light bulb. Latter one will work OK.



Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would

think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.

LED draws very little current.



Hi,

Drawing more current so solenoid can't activate. LED current draw is

very small. I went thru same experiment with our rotary gong type

church bell chime.

The problem is not that the solenoid can't activate. He said the problem
is that the chime activates as soon as he connects the pushbutton, without
the button being pushed. That indicates the light is causing too much
current to flow when the switch is open. The bulb or LED is in series
with the switch. I would think a bulb is going to use more current to
generate light than an LED.

And what you posted makes no sense anyway. When you push the button
the bulb is bypassed, ie shorted across and it's out of the circuit.
It momentarily goes out. The solenoid then gets full current, no?

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 2:32:31 PM UTC-4, Guv Bob wrote:
"SKrapp" wrote in message ...

My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.



I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps me:



As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the actual button being pressed.



In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)



I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second button.



The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.



Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?



Has to be a short somewhere. Solenoid/bell won't ring if it's an open circuit.

A lighted pushbutton is not an open circuit. The light completes the
circuit.

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 1:52:55 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 10:30:20 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

wrote:







There are two kinds lighted button. One with LED, one with real small



light bulb. Latter one will work OK.



Don;t you really mean the LED type will work? That's what I would

think. Bulb type would draw more current, possibly ringing bell.

LED draws very little current.



That sounds like a good argument, but try this. Lighted buttons used to

work. They were all real small light bulbs. Something changed. Ah,

the new design, used on some, uses an LED. Those are the one the

doorbells weren't designed for.

Perhaps the OP can tell us if the old button was lighted or not.
And if the new one is a bulb type or LED. From what I see the low
cost ones, less than $10 don't say what they are and are probably
bulb type. The more expensive ones are the only ones I see that say
LED type.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 12:03 PM, SKrapp wrote:
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual
plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before
the button broke.

I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what
stumps me:

As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on
the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at
contact- without the actual button being pressed.

In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any
metal (screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or
each other)

I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement
button trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing
happens with second button.

The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings
when the wires touch each other...only repeatedly.

Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?




Maybe you got a lighted button?

Just get a button that is nothing but a switch
Hi,
+1.

First reverse the wires to the switch. Failing that, then +1

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 5:52:39 PM UTC-4, Pico Rico wrote:

First reverse the wires to the switch. Failing that, then +1

That's what I would do.

An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode is a device that transmits in one direction. It's essentially a short in that direction.

Whoops, that's not gonna work, is it? It shouldn't transmit at all in the other direction, unless you're above breakdown voltage, which you probably are.

Never mind.

Something about that circuit is making a switch that should be Normally Open act as if it were Normally Closed. The diode sounds likely. You could just snip the diode wire. That would be a good test.

On Friday, June 20, 2014 10:25:35 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 5:52:39 PM UTC-4, Pico Rico wrote:



First reverse the wires to the switch. Failing that, then +1



That's what I would do.



An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode is a device that transmits in one direction. It's essentially a short in that direction.



Whoops, that's not gonna work, is it? It shouldn't transmit at all in the other direction, unless you're above breakdown voltage, which you probably are.



Never mind.



It's also AC, not DC.

"TimR" wrote in message
...

An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode is a device that transmits in
one direction. It's essentially a short in that direction.



There is no basic differance in a LED and any other diode. Within the
voltage/current ratings a LED acts just as any other diode does except it
often emmits light.

On 06/20/2014 09:41 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"TimR" wrote in message
...

An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode is a device that transmits in
one direction. It's essentially a short in that direction.



There is no basic differance in a LED and any other diode. Within the
voltage/current ratings a LED acts just as any other diode does except it
often emmits light.


True, although a LED has a low reverse breakdown voltage (just a little
higher than the forward breakdown voltage). The series resistor protects
it during both half-cycles of the AC.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." [Carl Sagan]

On Friday, June 20, 2014 1:28:04 PM UTC-4, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 06/20/2014 09:41 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

"TimR" wrote in message

...



An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode is a device that transmits in

one direction. It's essentially a short in that direction.







There is no basic differance in a LED and any other diode. Within the

voltage/current ratings a LED acts just as any other diode does except it

often emmits light.





True, although a LED has a low reverse breakdown voltage (just a little

higher than the forward breakdown voltage). The series resistor protects

it during both half-cycles of the AC.


Yeah. The LED sounds less likely now that I think about it. It wouldn't act as a short unless the current limiting series resistor had failed, and if that happened the LED should burn out and go open, stopping the chime.

My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual
plastic button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before
the button broke.
I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what
stumps me:
As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on
the new button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at
contact- without the actual button being pressed.

As others have already mentioned, you probably bought a lighted button. The
filament in the bulb is conducting enough current to trigger your doorbell.

I encountered this same situation a few months ago at my in-laws. They have
a battery operated doorbell that wouldn't support a light anyway. So I just
cut the leads to the light on the button. It works fine now.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 06/20/2014 02:45 PM, TimR wrote:

[snip]

Yeah. The LED sounds less likely now that I think about it. It wouldn't act as a short unless the current limiting series resistor had failed, and if that happened the LED should burn out and go open, stopping the chime.


Once I accidentally connected a LED to 12V without a resistor. There was
an immediate POP sound and half the plastic around the LED disappeared.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"If there is a God, he is a malign thug." [Mark Twain]

replying to micky, Ranger wrote:
I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED. The new
button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...rt-799154-.htm

On 7/31/2016 7:44 AM, Ranger Dudley Do-Right wrote:

I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED.
The new
button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?


'Scuse-em-wa, boys. Did you know I sometimes hear those same bells
ringing over and over and over again?
But then when I go to the door, there ain't nobuddy there.
Odd to say the least.

In article .com,
Ranger wrote:

replying to micky, Ranger wrote:
I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED. The new
button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?

Ranger-

I missed the previous message.

I would not expect it to make any difference, but you might swap the
wires to the button to be sure.

If that does not correct the problem but disconnecting the button stops
the ringing, the LED's current limiting resistor has too low a
resistance for that doorbell.

Fred

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 13:06:24 -0400, Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article .com,
Ranger wrote:

replying to micky, Ranger wrote:
I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED.
The new button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?

Ranger-

I missed the previous message.

That is because it was posted over *two years ago* on that silly
homeownershub web forum. Those people don't know how to read DATES!

Made me wonder if "Ranger's" doorbell has been ringing all those years.

On Sunday, July 31, 2016 at 1:30:47 PM UTC-4, Sam Hill wrote:
On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 13:06:24 -0400, Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article .com,
Ranger wrote:

replying to micky, Ranger wrote:
I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED.
The new button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?

Ranger-

I missed the previous message.

That is because it was posted over *two years ago* on that silly
homeownershub web forum. Those people don't know how to read DATES!

Made me wonder if "Ranger's" doorbell has been ringing all those years.


when i was 11 or 12 years old our doorbell started ringing at odd times with no one at the door. it was driving my grandma nuts.

i happened to be in the basement when it rang. the water heater turned on and the gas line moved ding dong......

the water heater had been replced just before this, the gas line touched the door bell wire and shorted it out.


i was very proud of my finding and fixing it, put a wood shim too keep the gas line fine from contacting the wire, and taped up the wires so it could never happen again.....

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 11:58:03 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Sunday, July 31, 2016 at 1:30:47 PM UTC-4, Sam Hill wrote:
On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 13:06:24 -0400, Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article .com,
Ranger wrote:

replying to micky, Ranger wrote:
I am having the same problem. My old buttons are lighted but not LED.
The new button has LED. Perhaps this is the problem?

Ranger-

I missed the previous message.

That is because it was posted over *two years ago* on that silly
homeownershub web forum. Those people don't know how to read DATES!

I see the problem as much more that they don't know how to quote. This
is a rare case in which, if you include the subject line -- and I
think posts should make sense without reading subject line - the post
is understandable.. But he said "I am having the same problem" without
saying what the problem is. Bad habit.

Made me wonder if "Ranger's" doorbell has been ringing all those years.

Sometimes answering old posts as they do so often is ridiculous, but
here the poster has the problem now.

when i was 11 or 12 years old our doorbell started ringing at odd times with no one at the door. it was driving my grandma nuts.

i happened to be in the basement when it rang. the water heater turned on and the gas line moved ding dong......

the water heater had been replced just before this, the gas line touched the door bell wire and shorted it out.


i was very proud of my finding and fixing it, put a wood shim too keep the gas line fine from contacting the wire, and taped up the wires so it could never happen again.....

You should have been proud.

On Sunday, July 31, 2016 at 12:30:47 PM UTC-5, Sam Hill wrote:

That is because it was posted over *two years ago* on that silly
homeownershub web forum. Those people don't know how to read DATES!


I've noticed the people over there on that questionable site
are not the sharpest knives in the drawer. They can ask some
of the silliest questions and many seem to be incapable of
doing any type of research on their own.

replying to SKrapp, WEDGE wrote:
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic
button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.
I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps
me:
As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new
button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the
actual button being pressed.
In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal
(screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)
I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button
trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second
button.
The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the
wires touch each other...only repeatedly.
Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?

I had the same problem the switch was a lighted LED. I replaced it with a
plain button and the [problem was resolved

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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...rt-799154-.htm

On Tue, 23 May 2017 04:14:05 GMT, WEDGE
m wrote:

replying to SKrapp, WEDGE wrote:
My wired doorbell button broke so I bought a replacement (the actual plastic
button cracked and fell out) The doorbell worked fine before the button broke.
I purchased a replacement button and removed the old one- here is what stumps
me:
As soon as the wires from the doorframe contact the screw terminals on the new
button, the doorbell chimes repeatedly. This happens at contact- without the
actual button being pressed.
In fact- The doorbell chimes repeatedly if I touch the wires to any metal
(screwdriver, or the copper piece from inside the new button, or each other)
I bought a second button after I dismantled the first replacement button
trying to make it work (remove diode, etc.).. same thing happens with second
button.
The chime works fine, the transformer has output... the chime rings when the
wires touch each other...only repeatedly.
Any suggestions before I pull the wires and go wireless?

I had the same problem the switch was a lighted LED. I replaced it with a
plain button and the [problem was resolved
Try reversing the wires on the button?