Inch and a half chisel my choice, used as Kevin says, so the compression
damage is _only_ in the waste. Symmetrical stuff like putty knives will
work, but sometimes leaves marks on the piece as well.

I try to avoid such things by parting nearly off and making a slight
concavity in the base of the piece, which is the best way to have it sit
flat. Be reasonably generous in what you leave, depending on attachment
method, and finish - power off - with a saw. The nub you leave behind can
be whittled away quickly with a curved knife and blended with sandpaper.

"Kevin Neelley" wrote in message
...
Stemo,

I would use a sharp chisel, with the flat side facing your bowl so the
bowl base
isn't damaged. Tap the chisel into the joint at several locations until
the
bagged joint separates. You should put something under the bowl so it
doesn't
fall onto your lathebed (or floor) and get damaged. Sand off the bag and
remaining glue or reverse turn the bowl.

Kevin
www.turnedwood.com


In article , Go
NY
Giants They Stink, Go Anyway!! says...

I have turned my first bowl and would appreciate advice on how to remove
it from the wooden block it's glued to. I mounted a wood block on my
face plate, and using tightbond glue, attached my blank to it with a
brown paper bag between the block and the blank. Being it's my first
bowl, I dont want to mess it up now, especially because it came out
quite well. Will a good tug free it or should I use my parting tool to
seperate it?? If I do use the parting tool should I remove the
slightest amount of the bowl bottom, or leave the slightest amount of
the block on the bowl and some how sand the block off???? Your advice
is greatly appreciated.


STEMO