Gunner Asch wrote in
:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 15:47:35 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:
Doug White wrote:
There are a variety of greases & oils that have microscopic
particles of PTFE, Molydisulphide, etc. in them. The claim is that
the particles embed themselves in the pores of the metal surfaces,
and provide long term reduction in friction.
My pistol club bought a bunch of Crosman 2300T air pistols to teach
kids how to shoot. The triggers are heavy & generally atrocious.
Even with the trigger weight screws set to the minimum, most of them
are over the maximum weight Crosman says to expect. Many of them
started out over 4 pounds, which is ridiculous for 10 year old kids.
Competition air pistol triggers should be just over 500 grams.
As soon as the current pistol class is over, I have volunteered to
try to fix the triggers as best I can. There are YouTube videos on
the process, and basically you just polish up the stamped steel
sheet metal parts where they rub. There are aftermarket triggers
with rollers, but the club isn't going to pour more money into these
pistols.
I'm hoping the right lube will help maintain the trigger jobs for
more than a few shots. I don't think the surfaces are hardened
beyond whatever work hardening they get from stamping.
Any favorite lubes I shoudol consider? I have moly assembly grease
with a very high moly content, but I don't know if the PTFE stuff
might be better.
Thanks!
Doug White
The surface finish is more critical than the lube you choose . And be
damn careful to maintain squareness and angles of contact . A surface
that's in full contact will have a lower per-unit pressure and feel
lighter . Just about any good quality gun oil will work just fine .
IMO the moly-based lubes are over-rated for most uses - they do have
their place , and I like 'em in my wheel bearings .
Very well stated.
The normal method for most guys is to give em a lick and a promise
with a Dremal tool. And for a guy who has good control and knows his
techniques well..works fine. I personally set up triggers and sears
on a small industrial 12k rpm drill press and put my wheels in the
drill chuck..then use a raised flat block to lay my parts on and work
with the part absolutely flat..in good lighting, while wearing a
magnifying hood.
Also use a series of India stones, with the block as a guide to keep
things parallel and flat
Its little things like that that get one good triggers and not worry
about how long its going to take before they break in.
Gunner
Unless you've got a jig, using a Dremel is great way to wreck the angles
& end up with an uneven surface. I've done a lot of trigger jobs (but
on real hardened sears & such), and have a full set of Arkansas stones &
slips, plus fixtures for 1911's & High Standards.
The rubbing parts on the Crosman are basically thick sheet metal. I
don't know yet if the factory makes any attempt to smooth the surfaces,
or just leaves them "as punched". Here's a photo of the mechanism:
http://www.airguns.pl/wiatrowka/wiat...-crosman-2300-
1.jpg
The pivots are in the pot metal frame, which doesn't help. I suspect
they will wear fairly quickly with regular class use. There are all
sorts of aftermarket triggers & sears for these pistols. You can buy
the pistol for ~ $140, so it's pretty absurd to then spend $50 on an
aftermarket trigger setup.
Doug White