Thanks for the help. Actually, I'm using stearated paper. In my
estimation, the surface that I have is not ready for sandpaper.........even
80 grit. It still needs tool work. Its not so much fuzzy fibers on the
surface as it is pits that need to be leveled out by recutting.

I had tried most of the advice already. I finally re-sharpened my new Sorby
shear scraper (just because its new doesn't mean its sharp!). I made a
couple of passes with the newly sharpened shear scraper and then re-sanded.
Its acceptable. Not as good as I would like, but passable. Maybe I'll do
better next time. Thanks.

Barry

PS My Jet Mini won't reverse.

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi Barry, It's implicit in the good advice you 've gotten, but
remember to work the _problem. ie. when cutting or scraping fails, stop
the lathe and seal, oil, wax or wet the paper and the two torn areas and
sand _only those bad areas_ til smooth. Then feather out. Hope you don't
'save' by using worn out or cheap abrasives. Sometimes sterate paper
works better than open grit. Try holding the paper in your rt. hand and
rocking the piece back & forth with your left hand. Sometimes reversing
the lathe's rotation will bring those surly fibers to attention and they
can be cut or sanded off at the knees. Now clean up by gently
shearscraping with a heavy sharp tool. Sometimes 'floating' the
shearscraper by holding it unsupported off the toolrest helps. Higher
speed seems to help me. Sometimes, for me, nothing helps except to
re-turn the interior or to 'decorate' the torn grain area! Remember
those 'soda straws' and finish cut cross grain interior surfaces toward
the center. I think the $5 word is centripetal. Finally, there may
be a place for LDD in dealing with this problem.

Recall that there are ways to hand or power sand most bowl interiors
other than with discs, ex.: flap sanding by holding small strips of the
abrasive in a slotted dowel. winding the paper around a dowel or stapled
over a domed pad, etc. Arch

Fortiter,