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[email protected] krw@attt.bizz is offline
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Default Shop wiring and lighting

On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 00:12:52 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 13:14:26 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"basilisk" wrote in message
...
I have been applying myself to getting the wiring installed in the shop,
so far the only part completed is the 120V for outlets.

All ran in emt, with 2 gang handy box every ten feet around the
perimeter,
making it impossible to get more than 5 feet from 2 duplex outlets.
They are even closer in some areas where high usage is likely.
Making a total of 40 duplex outlets.
I may put a row of drops down the center of the roofline in
addition to wall outlets, they would be handy but also possibly in the
way at times.

I despise having to look for a place to plug something up.

One 2 circuit 10ga 240v line is complete along the back wall
to provide power to the bandsaw and planer, neither of which
is in place or hooked up presently. They are currently living on
my back porch, should be in their new home shortly.

I will run another double 240V circuit along part of the front wall
one to provide power to a new table saw ( if I ever decide what to buy)
and another just for future use.

I have ran many tens of thousands of feet of conduit in the distant
past,
but it took me a while to get back in the swing of bending conduit.
Kinda like riding a bike, you never forget but it's a little shaky at
first.

also left to do is two runs for 3 phase, presently I have 6 pieces of 3
phase equipment that will be powered by a rotary
converter.

I've tried to stick with the rules on the wiring with the exception
of GFI breakers, so it would fail inspection on that point.

Which brings us to lighting, I'm still using a strip of carnival lights
for temporary lighting, which cosist of 25, 100 watt equivalent CFL
bulbs, this works and is a lot of light but it looks like and is ****,
time for permanent lighting.

I've pretty much settled on 6
low bay 400 watt metal halide. I considered 400 watt equiv
led lights but just can't bear the expense right now,
pay me now or pay me later. They are making mogul base
leds that will screw in metal halide fixtures after bypassing
the ballast, so hopefully the price of leds will come down
by the time the metal halide fixtures fail. If all that happens
I can replace them one at the time.

You know I only ran 2 240V circuits to the back in my shop initially. One
for the air compressor I still don't have to replace the CH roll around,
and
one for a table saw. Now I have 2 240V welders back there and a 230V CNC
Mill, and will soon add another 230V CNC mill back there. Also maybe a
large bed CNC router with a 230V spindle. I never thought in a million
years I would have so much fabrication equipment in my shop. Lots of 120V
outlets is fine, but plan a few extra 240V circuits as well. You never
know.

Sure but think about how the tools are going to be used.


My air compressor can trip on anytime that one of the mills is running.
After I program them and press the start button I don't just stand there and
watch them run... Even 6 or 7 years ago I would never have thought I would
own a mill much less a CNC mill or a couple of them, a CNC router, and have
plans to both buy and build more. I can easily see my CNC router, my mini
mill, and my big mill all running at the same time with the compressor
tripping on and off as needed for oilers, brakes, etc. To be honest I am
not likely to be using the 220V RAS, but I can see my wanting to weld
something or do a quick cut on the table saw....


Yes, that's why I said one has to consider how one is using the tools.
Few of us have CNC machines, and fewer need 240V for them. However, I
think we can all use more 120V outlets.

A couple extra 220V circuits or atleast the ability to tie them in quickly
and easily if needed can't hurt. You aren't going to find to many 5HP
motors designed to run on 110V.


I'm not likely to find many 5HP motors in my basement without knowing
about them some time before they're needed, either. ;-)

As I said, the number of breaker slots is usually limited. Sure, one
can put subs in but unless they're needed it's a lot of bother and
expense.

There is
little reason to have separate circuits for a table saw and shaper,


I do have my RAS wired into the same circuit for my air compressor, but only
because the RAS will be rarely used.


I wouldn't even do that but I would wire it into the same circuit as
the table saw or band saw (if it were 240V, which it's not).

for instance. I tilt in favor of more 120V circuits and fewer 220V
(only so many slots in a box). I have mine wired with alternating
outlets on two circuits and six (so far) 120V circuits. Right now, I
only have two 220V circuits (1/tools, 1/dust collection). Lights, of
course, are on their own circuits.


Also, remember that anyplace you have 240 and a neutral you also have 120V.


The key phrase is "and a neutral". I never run neutrals. -3 wire is
about 2x the cost of -2 and it's a pain. No need.