On 2/11/2014 6:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 09:13:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.

So, essentially you're jury rigging your own scoring blade. Simple but
effective trick. That's a good idea. I'll have to give it a try.
Thanks.


It might work better than a scoring blade. The score will be the exact
width of the final cut, and there's nothing extra to adjust. It will
work if cutting dados or just making regular cuts.

Perhaps but many of the scoring blades are actually two thin kerf blades
separated by shims. And some can be spaced far enough apart to work
well when cutting dados. But not quite as necessary since the dados are
relatively shallow cuts to begin with.

Regardless, what I do works well for the reason you mentioned.

Many of the European built TS's that are offered in the US offer the
scoring blade option and many offer videos of how these blades are
adjusted on their web sites. I was looking closely at a Laguna TS with
the scoring blade last year when shopping for a new cabinet saw. I
opted for the industrial SawStop and am very happy today with my choice.





I've used masking tape to reduce tear out, but that's about all it does:
reduce it. On a surface like Melamine, any little bit of tear out shows
up.

Thanks for the tip, Leon. I will put it to good use with difficult
materials.

Obliviously a sharp blade is an advantage but try it out on some scraps
and compare the results by making the scored cut and then completing the
cut vs simply making the cut. There is relatively no advantage to doing
this when ripping.