On 2/11/2014 8:42 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

*snip*


And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in
plywood even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due
for a resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques
even on a fresh blade just out of habit.


Do we have to tune in next week, Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel?

Puckdropper



You probably already know this. When I have a $120 sheet of walnut or
cherry that needs to be cross cut I especially don't like to take
chances with splintering/tear out on the bottom side of the panel, top
too for that matter. If your blade is not high enough you can get some
splintering on the top side of the cut so the higher the better so to
speak. The bottom side of the cut becomes a different matter. The
higher the blade the more likely you will get more severe tear out on
the bottom of the cut.

Common techniques to combat this are to use a straight edge and sharp
marking knife or utility knife to prescore the panel. Also the use of a
zero clearance insert can be of benefit.

The problem with both is that the zero clearance insert eventually
becomes less "zero clearance" and provides less support on the bottom
side of the cut. And the strait edge and scoring knife can be tedious
and or less accurate.

Most better European saws offer a scoring blade that is raised slightly
above the surface and directly in front of the main blade. This scoring
blade's only function is to make the cut through the bottom side of the
panel veneer. Well some might use it for other functions but that is
what it's intended use is.

My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.