On 2/10/2014 10:14 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/10/2014 10:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
message
Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so
that after it arrives I can talk more about how it works.

I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it
was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my sharpener is
probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's
not likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of
job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut
noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to
sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up
the garage pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but
there was some burning on each cut.
So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site that
Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could
possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
forward to this thing.


Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many teeth and ATB
then
spend a little more money and buy a 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is
meant for ripping. Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud
still made
them.


The 40 tooth one is the best overall blade.
It does crosscutting and ply better than the 30 would.

If you look all the WW blades are ATB, even their rip blades. Only their
miter saw blade has flat teeth.






Actually the WW10401125 blade is a flat grind, 40 tooth WW2 1/8" kerf
It is one of 6 special grind WW2 Customized blades that Forrest offers.

At the bottom of the page.

http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_2.htm