Correction:

When I said a few thousands of an inch- I was reading the gauge wrong-
its actually a few hundreths. Does this change things?

Bob




Bay Area Dave wrote in message . com...
Bob wrote:

Wow. I get the feeling others have struggled with this problem and
gotten past the obsession.

While I realize that I am very obsesssive, I am trying to flatten two
things that need to be flat: a pair of vise jaws and a block of maple
that will be coated with green compound for sharpening. I have read
that if you see any light behind a straightedge, the work is not flat,
from which I surmised that one can make a piece of wood flat. (BTW My
Starrett is flat, as I do have a small granite plate.)

Perhaps I will just use the natural light of my shop to peak under the
straightedge- instead of a light directly behind. No light shows up in
that case, and I can pretend its perfectly flat. ( I am able to trick
my mind in this way- I can also bend spoons with it. Or forks.
Plates.)

All in all, I think I will take the majority of the advice here and
not worry too much- because one thing is for sure, its making ww not
fun.

Well, okay maybe its a little fun.

Thanks for the replies.

Bob the Newbie (not the other Bob)

(Bob) wrote in message . com...

Hello:

I have struggled to a point way beyond frustration to get a surface-
any surface dead-on flat. I have used the marking the high points
method and used every plane scrub, jack, jointer, smooth, scraper,
etc., No matter what I do I can't get it 100% flat. When I shine a
light behind my Starrett, it is always off by a few thou. Is there a
way to get a surface truly flat using hand planes and a scraper? It
almost seems impossible. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!

Bob
I prefer my MDF jaws on my newer vise to the maple jaws I
had on my POS Fox vise. MDF is PLENTY flat enough for a
vise. you are only talking 7-10 inches length. when
compressed, don't you think even IF they weren't PERFECTLY
flat, they would conform to the item in between the jaws?

for the sharpening plate I don't know what to tell you; I
use the scary sharp method to hone blades (sandpapers and
mylar films on top of a piece of ultra flat tile. Therefore
I don't know if MDF would be appropriate as a substrate for
pastes. I'd think it would deteriorate fast.

dave