On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 20:46:17 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 16:05:17 -0800, wrote:

On Fri, 3 Jan 2014 11:53:02 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Friday, January 3, 2014 1:10:28 PM UTC-6, Jon Banquer wrote:
In article ,





I got a book at Christmas, "Professional Sheet Metal techniques". I have wanted to build a t bucket for some time. It would be cool to do it out of metal so I have been studying.



Anyway, I know what an English wheel is. I have never used one. Are they hard to use? It would be hard to justify the expense just to play with it to see If I could pick up any skill on it.



One thing I read was that the English wheel was not really used much in the United states until the 1980's. What did people do before this? Would person just build a hammerform?



I wondered if a person could weld together a metal "buck" of a T bucket, tach weld sections of sheet metal to it, then heat the metal with a rose bud tip to make the sheet metal "bend" in the proper areas so the metal would lay flat against the buck?



Again just trying to learn from you expert metalworkers.







http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10143



"I've been a metal working video buyer over the years, but nothing beats

hands-on instruction."





http://tinyurl.com/ljh4ot2

I agree. Its just hard to justify buying an English wheel, plannishing hammer, etc to "try it out"/

So, you don't think someone could use a hammer form to form the body in sections, then weld together?

I know this is a really dumb question, but I watached a partial video on you tube of a guy using a wood buck to make the turtle deck part of the car. I assume the buck is removed before the part is installed? What guage metal do they typically use for these projects?

Thanks!
Having done hammer froming my self I can say I would not think it
would work very well for something like a car fender. This is because
instead of a wood buck made of several pieces that only touches the
formed piece in several you need a wood form that you hammer the metal
onto wherever it needs to be formed.

Hammering onto the form doesn't work . You hammer the metal on forming
blocks, a slap bag, or whatever else does the job and then FIT it to
the buck, or mold.

So you would need a hardwood form
that was a copy of the inside of a fender and you would hammer the
steel to fit the form exactly. Plus you need to clamp the metal to the
form while hammering to keep it from moving around on the form. It is
true that the hammer never touches the metal, you hammer on a piece of
hard wood which you hold against the metal, so there won't be hammer
marks. But it is quite easy to hold the wood wrong and put in dents
anyway. Even into steel. Tell you what, go buy a used bowling ball and
a 1 square foot piece of 1/8 thick 5000 series aluminum and an old
baseball bat. Cut the narrow part of the bat off so it's about 8
inches long. Then run a couple screws through the approximate center
of the aluminum sheet into the bowling ball. Then hold the wood
against the aluminum sheet near the screws and start hammering on the
wood. Move the wood along so the the aluminum is formed to the ball.
When the complete square is tightly formed to the ball extrapolate the
time taken to get an idea of what it would take to do a fender. And
remember, that 1/8 aluminum will move much easier than steel of the
proper thickness for a good fender. Then go shopping for that 300
dollar english wheel and a planishing hammer.
Eric


You hammer form first, to get the rough shape started, then you
plannish and wheel to smooth the part and finish the shape. I'll have
to post the pictures of the nose bowl on my website. 2 peice nose bowk
for Pegazair 100, formed out of 16ga aluminum flashing. Same
principal with steel, but a LOT more work!!!!!!!
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All the hammer forming I have done is by hammering onto a form. And it
works well. The metal tightly conforms to the wooden form.
Eric

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