On Sat, 04 Jan 2014 00:44:15 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 20:53:04 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 12:15:41 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 3 Jan 2014 11:18:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:

I can't quite hammer a MIG-welded-and-ground seam flat or match a
curve on a fender well, but that might be my lack of practice and
the difficulty of working from only one side.

White paint hides bodywork imperfections well.

jsw, struggling to type in gloves at 44F while testing backup
electric heat. It's 3F outside.



MIG makes for a hard brittle weld on sheet metal. I like to use TIG
or gas if you want to be able to metal finish the parts fully. They
leave a softer weld and the HAZ is much smaller.
--
Steve W.

I didn't use TIG because of the car's electronics, or gas because I
couldn't remove all the caulking inside the fender lip. It's hard to
even see inside there.
jsw

Remove the battery and turn on the headlights (high beam preferred)
and TIG away - no problem with the electronics.

2 questions: What do the headlights do, absorb the HF?
and What about vehicles like my Tundra, which has relays, effectively
negating any benefit?
They clamp the voltage - all lines to ground. If the headlights are
relayed and cannot be connected just put a load across the battery
terminals in place of the battery - not a dead short but a good "load"

I wonder if the little tigger would light up the spare 9004 in my tool
box...or do I need to worry? The Harbor Freight tigger doesn't have a
HF section. It's a scratch-to-start. That's why copper coated rod is
a must for me.

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu