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woodchucker[_3_] woodchucker[_3_] is offline
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Default Mods to K body type blocks

On 12/23/2013 12:00 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/22/2013 7:04 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 12/22/2013 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/22/2013 1:23 PM, woodchucker wrote:
I bought 2 sets of k blocks from woodcraft... but they were not
Bessey's
they were woodcraft brand.. one set came with clamps (bessey clamps
branded woodcraft) the other set I bought so I could do more than one
set of doors, or drawers at a time.

They were useless as they were not like the k blocks...
Well, I was really annoyed, and finally I thought about it.. I've had
them years and haven't used them much because of the problem.

I just cut them down to look more like the bessey's on one side..
See this link you'll notice the clamps did not come close to each
other.
Now they do... if you were dumb enough (like me) to buy these... this
simple mod makes them useful.. you only need to cut one side to make
them useful.

if you cut a second perpendicular side, you would make them useless.

See: http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0

I absolutely never saw the point to having the blocks.

I have seen the value. But I bought them a few years ago and saw that
there was a problem long after I bought them. I wanted to get some use
out of them, and finally saw the light.

I build lots of drawers, 2011 I build 100 drawers.

Anyway just set one pare on your work bench and set your drawer pieces
on top. Then put your other pair of clamps on top of the drawer,
clocked 90 degrees and pointed down. Problem solved.

Agreed, that how I have been doing it. But it seems like less fuss to
just drop the drawer in and tighten. Hoping when I am ready to do the
glue ups that it will be easier.

Now if I pin the corners while all four clamps are in place I can take
the top clamps off and only use the bottom two clamps for holding things
together while the glue dries.


And BTW your are not dumb, you did not have enough information to make
an educated purchase.

Ok, but had I checked them out when I bought them instead of letting
them sit for a long, long time I could have returned the extra set...
Anyway, I think this resolves the problem to some extent... I'll get a
chance to try them out the way I had hoped.

The biggest problem I see with them is that they align the clamps into
the corner. You really want the clamps to be off set to apply pressure
on the side and or end, not a combination of the two. And when you
stack the clamps like the blocks require you loose about one additional
inch of clamping surface.

Basically you have to cut your box joints and or dove tails shallow so
that the clamp actually pushes the sides and ends together. You really
want to cut the joints a touch deep. Then you just sand the ends flush
with the sides or ends.


Yes if you over clamp you distort the joint but you really don't have to
squeeze any harder than to close the joint. Additionally if you cut the
bottom to fit precisely the bottoms will help to square every thing up
and aid in preventing distortion.

That's why I modified the blocks because it matters when doing drawers.
the slightest pressure deforms them.
It's not an issue for a door, the rail doesn't really deform.

Putting pressure on the dovetail is no big deal, just a piece of cork is
enough to allow it to imprint in the cork.

When I put clamps on top they really are on the upper end/side. I use
the whole clamp surface which includes the area at the bar and below the
bar.

Again, I do that now... but looking forward to dropping the drawer in..
I can add a nother clamp on top for the one that is lower... after. But
this thing is nice, in testing a dry fitting, it's much easier to square
it up..


A picture might be worth a thousand words if you would like to see one.




--
Jeff