There, it's said. Each side needs help.

You can use a fiber product for the substrate versus plywood, make for an
easier job, and make contact cement a better choice. If you do ply, remember
to cross the grain, and hide glue is really a better bet than contact cement
there.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 21:50:32 -0500, "bob"
wrote:

I need some white mahogany plywood for the back of a cabinet I'm building
out of white mahogany. Well, you can't buy WM plywood. So, what if I
resaw
and plane some stock down to 1/8", then glue it on to a 1/8" luaun
plywood?

I'd look for ready-cut veneer of a suitable face timber, rather than
trying to make my own,

Making plywood from scratch is hard, but surface veneering ready-made
ply (or MDF) is common practice and some pretty easy veneering. Do
both sides equally to "balance" it, or you may get warping problems.

Don't use contact cement. I'ts just about usable for small pieces
(although I wouldn't) but for a large piece you'll never get it on
straight before it sticks firmly into place. Use hot hide glue
instead, the traditional and still the best. The "stick" behaviour as
it goes on hot and chills is about the best behaviour I've yet found
for veneering. I'd suggest a veneer hammer, rather than a roller, but
that's a personal thing.
--
Smert' spamionam