"Danny D'Amico" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 21:02:38 -0500, tm wrote:

You should peel off the double sided tape on the LV Disconnect board and
see
if any track has been damaged.

Thanks for that advice. The sticky tape was covering the traces:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/1...7bb08f86_o.gif

So, following your advice, I peeled it mostly off, and looked with a
magnifying glass as you had suggested:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/1...1b250d61_o.gif

The 1,000uF 35V capacitor leads are burnt a bit, but, it could have been a
replacement cap for all I know, as the cap is not shorted nor is it an
open
(it's about 350 ohms steady).
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/1...5e7abf80_o.gif

However, the fact is that this sequence shows *something* is wrong with
that D135A battery-protection board:

1. The battery is 13.31V
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/1...16f7c34e_o.gif

2. Connecting this way is 13.31V:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/1...beeeeed8_o.gif

3. But, connecting this way is 0V:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/1...e6cba24f_o.gif


Use the meter test lead (red) to touch the red battery lead to the output
terminal briefly. You should hear the relay pull in. Then the power terminal
should be at 12 volts. This board depends on AC power being applied to the
alarm unit and some battery charging current needs to be available to arm
the battery protection board.

tm