jloomis wrote:
Trex is engineered for 16" spacing and that is why you had a failure
at the 47" space.
The design you show would work.
I would use 2x6 or same size joist hangers.
I avoid sandwiching of boards where possible.
Especially with planters and wet surface.
Trex cut like wax/plastic/sawdust -- in other words it cuts like butter.
I use a 1/4 round on edges.
You may see some bubble air pockets in any rip.
pressure treated material underpinning is best.
Screws work....torque drive 3" stainless best.
They do have special brackets now for trex also.
john

"Bill" wrote in message ...

SWMBO left heavy flower pots on each end of our 48" unsupported step
made out of Trex this summer, and the Trex boards warped (very bad--more
than 2").

The design looks poor, so that's where I'll point the blame. ; )

Here is a drawing of the current design along with my proposed solution:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/deckstep.jpg

(Thanks)
Bill

Some progress on this has been made. I secured:

- 1" x 5" galvanized Corner braces (2 @ $4.79 each) to help reinforce
the front of the "box" from the inside.
- Joist hangers for 2by4's (6 @ . 78 cents each) to support three
21-inch "beams" accross the box, to help support the Trex. The beams
will thus be 12" between centers.
- $9 worth of 1 1/4" Stainless Steel screws for the hardware above.
- 16 feet of Trex (@ $3.19 per linear-foot = $51 + tax ---ouch!)

I still have a week+ to wait for the Trex material to arrive. Note to
self: Borrow 40 deck-screws from the neighbors deck, three or four at a
time. ; )

In the meantime, here is my question:

These 2x4 joist hangers, as most everyone now knows, are designed so
that besides the 4 nails or screws (and built-in "staples") securing the
hanger, two 10D nails are to be driven, diagonally, through the hanger
and through the beam being supported, into whatever is carrying the
load. These will evidently provide some structural support--in fact,
perhaps as much or more than that provided by the hanger (maybe)? In
my case, 48" 2by8s will be carrying "the load", in fact a somewhat
weathered 2by8s--and it's difficult to consider pounding twelve 10d (3")
nails into them without causing destruction of the existing "box" (so I
am hesitant to do that).

Is there a gentler alternative that makes sense? Obviously, just not
putting nails through the beam is one possibility (though it wouldn't be
as strong, and it might not be as nice if the beams move). Is there a
suitable screw or another suitable nail, etc? Related thoughts?

(Thanks)
Bill


BTW, Swingman, I now better understand why you document how long it
takes to get certain details done (like securing materials). Because, in
reality, things seem to take longer than one might anticipate--and one
will do well to remember that!