Why not plain hex heads? I don't see where they need to be perfectly round;
the sand thickness may be uneven but who's to say what the bats will prefer?
:-) Oh, also look at 12-point head bolts, not round but rounder than hex
heads and no hole.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"William Bagwell" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 12 Sep 2013 14:41:02 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

Y'know, I've seen such breakaway bolts in a locksmithing catalog (which I
can't put my hands on now). You might check with a local locksmith for some
advice.

Also, without knowing exactly what it is you're trying to do or how many
you need, I'll just take a shot: Would it be possible to just take some cap
screws and fill in the sockets with solder? Shouldn't be a big deal at all,
unless you need thousands.

Actually did almost that a few years ago. Only needed four total for
that application since it was to control shrinkage in one particular
area of the finished part. Used TIG and then smoothed and rounded the
weld as I was removing the knurl and putting a degree or two of taper.
No longer have ready access to TIG or oxy-acetylene, doubt stick or flux
core would work very well. Plus I may need as many as 50.

What I am trying to this time is add places for sand to pause long
enough to stick to the hot plastic. Rotational molding uses powered
plastic rather than the pellets used in injection (and blow) molding.
Normally no sand is used, but since I'm making bat house shells and want
the inside wall to be rough like a cave wall... Since sand does not melt
it tumbles around until the very last before sticking.

Works great in corners, narrow areas and around bumps or projections.
However, large flat areas of the mold do not allow time for the sand to
stick since the mold is constantly turning.

A bit more back ground and a few pictures near the bottom of this page
if anyone is interested.
http://mysecondbathouse.com/sand-texture/
--
William