In article , Tim Watts
writes
On Thursday 22 August 2013 10:58 fred wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Rolling it over in my head I wondered about not fully beaming out the
floor but slabbing it and only putting beams at the slab joins, so only
supporting 2 edges. Then thought about bedding and moved from cement to
some kind of conformal foam (neoprene?) strip the width of the beams at
a thickness to avoid cobbling but thin enough so there was not constant
vertical movement. Thinking on how to grout the unsupported gaps -
don't, just butt the slabs and allow some drainage into the underspace.

How about these:

http://www.wallbarn.com/products/roo...hes/mega-pads-
extended-height-paving-support-pads/

I'm assuming that you have an existing solid base?

Will not be cheaper but will be a lot easier than concrete beams.

Certainly some nice ideas on that site, including rubber corner pads
that may help the chap on the other thread with the leaking balcony roof
- redo the fibreglass double thickness then protect it with lightweight
slabs on corner mounts, although I would worry about water stagnating in
the small gap under the slabs and getting smelly.

Back to main topic, I'd be a bit worried about having a large area of
slabs effectively on stilts and the o/p's finished height of up to 900mm
may be an issue. Also prices are hefty even for the short (220mm ones)
which would work out at 10quid a slab, tenner upwards each for 600mm? So
20quid a slab.

2.4m x 100 x 65mm prestressed lintels[1] are showing online at under
20quid in bulk so that's a fiver per slab (600mm sq) plus the cost of
the dwarf wall(s). Weight about 14kg/m so 33kg for 2.4m.

[1] normally used with bonded brick courses so not checked for loading
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .