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Ecnerwal[_3_]

In article ,
wrote:
A similar method, but likely stronger, is to pre-heat as above and
then weld with "ni-rod" (high nickel) or stainless steel wire. Makes
a very strong and permanent repair - the weld and the absorption layer
around it are stronger than the base casting, as the alloy from the
Ni-Rod or stainless "draws out" into the casting. Let it cool slowly
and naturally when finished. I've used this method on numerous
machine (agricultural) and tractor parts over the last several decades
and I'm not aware of any of the repairs failing.

Less likely to warp something and also more fuel efficient is the
technique I was taught by the Ag Eng welding shop in college. Cold
Welding with Nickel.

Grind it out to a V (leaving enough broken cast to register it (or the
threads, and a little bit, in this case), drill the ends if a crack. Lay
a short bead of nickel rod (55 or 99 Ni) and peen it as it cools. Lay
more short beads elsewhere (not continuous nor contiguous at least until
you return to the area later in the process and fill in between older
sections to connect them), peening each time. The peening stretches the
nickel so it does not pull the casting as it cools. If the work gets
warm enough that you can't leave your hand on it, go have a cup of
coffee, or lunch. Keep at it until you have filled the whole thing.
Slow, but not as slow as preheating a large casting, and does not
required stripping parts away from the immediate work zone as preheating
does.

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