dadiOH wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message

dadiOH wrote:
If your door is "standard", it is 80". A molding 1.25
thick and 2" wide is wierd.
Yes, I messed up on that. I need a 2 1/2" by 1/2" thick
molding. I described the molding around an entry way (to
the kitchen) adjacent to it, where the actual door lies
5" or so inward.

Because it isn't a perfect world is also the reason I
avoid mitering casing.
I've been "sweating that miters" ever since I took the
old one molding down! Though the fellow who did the
previous installation didn't sweat it--he just left a
3/8" gap inside the miter I guess that's why I didn't
hesitate to discard it.
Instead, I use corner blocks...the ends of the casings
are cut square and of the proper length to align with
the reveal. The open square left is then filled with a
slightly thicker and larger square piece of wood;
thicker so it will be proud of the jambs; larger so it
will be wider than the jambs on both edges. A
"stopper". Corner blocks often have a decorative
rosette; I don't have a rosettes cutter so I just rout
a decorative edge all around.
I haven't figured out yet why I one may need a rosette
cutter (it seems like they should be of standard size (s)
--like 2 3/4" square) but I like your idea of using
"corner blocks" (much better than my chances of cutting
perfect miters!) I'll investigate further.


Thank you very much for your helpful and interesting post!

Bill
NP. One thing...in this part
"The open square left is then filled with a
slightly thicker and larger square piece of wood;
thicker so it will be proud of the jambs; larger so it
will be wider than the jambs on both edges. "
The word "jamb" should be "casing".

You drew the right picture for me. In fact, I found Home Depot has a
door casing all-in-one kit using your model (but it's MDF so I'm not
going to use that
particular kit).

I'll let you know how it comes out! : ) I think I'm going to start
by re-shimming the door (read my other most-recent post)...

Bill