Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 01 Jun 2013 16:14:57 -0400
"Steve W." wrote:

snip
The 14 is easy to convert. Basically you add a needle valve to the
front of the gas block. It allows you to dial down or shut off the gas
flow. I did it with mine (before it fell overboard) to tame the
action. Folks at the range didn't like getting hit with brass 6 lanes
away...

Agreed, my 14 chucked out rounds aggressively to say the least. Did you
follow some instructions or just wing it on your own?

I looked at the system and how other adjustable gas systems worked. Most
simply have orifices that rotate into position. Since I shoot various
ammo I figured a needle valve would do the same thing and be tunable
depending on the rounds fired. I made up a needle with a nice knob so
that you could easily back it out in case some unburned powder or dirt
got in the port.


I never understood the conversion to single simply because you could
start with a good bolt gun and get better results with less work.
But everyone has different tastes.

Thanks for the info Steve. My mistake was I should have started with a
good bolt action I've read the reviews/comments nowadays off the web
and would never have gotten one back then had I known they were so
temperamental accuracy wise... Mine was an early model, 1976 Centennial
if I remember correctly.


The 14 was never intended to be super accurate. The AR/M16 isn't all
that great in issue form either. The civilian versions have a LOT of
improvements to make them more accurate. Some of those have made it into
the issued rifles but many haven't.

I always followed the function over form policy myself. If the firearm
goes bang EVERY time the trigger is pulled and hit's within a 2-3" group
it works fine for me. I did have a few that if the shooter did their
part would put every round through a dime sized group but for the most
part for hunting animals as long as you can hit the vital area(s) what
more do you need?


--
Steve W.