On Wed, 1 May 2013 09:29:15 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 1, 12:10*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 01 May 2013 07:47:43 -0700 wrote:

he seems to be having problems removing
the 90 conduit elbow from the motor. *From what he's describing,
ie having to rotate the motor to remove it, I'm wondering if instead
of being fastened with a locknut, the motor case has threads in
it and it's actually screwed into the motor case?

I don't have the experience to have known to describe the difference,
in advance anyway - but what you say is exactly what's happening!

Gimme a sec to snap a photo to show what I mean, on the last
three motors that were hooked to these very same wires:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12826969.jpg

The existing 90 degree 1/2" to 1" elbow is fantastically difficult
to remove, such that the wires get all twisted and the insulation
cracked so badly that I had to put wire goop on them where they
go into the conduit (see circled area in this picture):
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12826746.jpg

That settles it. There are threads in the motor housing.
So, you're right, it makes it a PITA to remove.


I now see what went on.



So, I plan on slicing the 1" conduit a couple inches back, and
removing all the cracked wire and then putting the junction box
down at that point.

You'll also notice I bought straight-through conduit connectors
as I'm done with 90 degree elbows!

Is there a better way?

It sounds like a reaonable approach to me.

But if it were me, I'd probably get out a 1/2"+
drill, ream out those threads and use a locknut to secure
the elbow to the motor. Then I'd use a straight run of conduit
back to the timer box. But, I have those drills
In your situation, nothing wrong with what you're doing.

Had he removed the wire from the control box and pull the wire out of
the conduit, the elbow *should* spin off.

Beats hell out of spinning the motor, eh?