On Apr 30, 12:48*am, "Danny D." wrote:
UPDATE:

No matter how many plumbing or irrigation supply places I visited
in San Jose today, I couldn't find this simple 2.5" to 2" reducer:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814178.png
*http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?pr...uples-Reducing

So I picked up a standard 2.5" coupling + a bushing:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814556.jpg

And I cut the 90 degree elbows off the Jandy valve:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814560.jpg

The 2.5" coupler and bushing should fit perfectly:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814562.jpg

I think I'll move the motor back and to the right a bit:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814563.jpg

I put the pump in a vise and easily spun off the inlet fitting:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814565.jpg

I'm not sure if the new bushing takes pipe dope or not?
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814568.jpg

I think I bought the wrong electrical box, because the 1"-to-1/2"
elbow was connected to a one-inch conduit but I seem to have
bought a 3/4" conduit box.
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814567.jpg

Tomorrow I should wire it up - but I'm confused about the following:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814564.jpg

Q1: Do we use pipe dope on the pump threads? (What kind?)

I'd use teflon tape on the threads. That's what I always use,
but I think pipe dope is OK too.

Q2: What gauge do you think the electrical wire is?

You can use 12 gauge. The wire coming out of the motor is
probably smaller than that. The pump only draws about 8
amps.


Q3: If I buy a 1" box, can I hook both pumps to the same box?

I don't know what you mean by 1" box? One that has 1" knockouts?
In any case, you can put all the wiring in one box, provided it's of
sufficient size for the number and size of conductors you're using.
The box you have looks large enough.



(i.e., two conduits in, and two conduits out, each a separate line)
Q4: How do we tie the lines together at the box (wire nuts)?

Yes.



Note: I've never done 220V wiring before.

If it were me, as I said before, I would forget about the added splice
box and just replace the short lengths of liquidtight conduit and wire
back to the timer box with new runs. IMO, it's easier, faster, looks
better, etc. You said the splices would make the motors easier
to remove in the future, but I don't see why. Those existing wires
came right off the pump motor, didn't they?

Good to see the project is going well and you didn't find any
unexpected problems....