To the people that think I should just put a level, flat drywall
ceiling over the existing ceiling: the current ceiling isn't ugly,
just unlevel, and to me the idea of putting another over it seems like
a lot of work.

Good idea. If you put another ceiling *over* a lathe and plaster one,
you're going to have a mess of trouble later. Putting sheetrock over
it just catches the old ceiling if it ever starts to fall (and they
like to do that), and you end up with a big sag in the middle of the
room that you can't just screw back up. If you replace it (not saying
you should) tear the old ceiling down first.

This is especially true because I am doing almost all
of this alone and it is hard to get a helper. Renting a drywall
lifter? Hauling it up, screwing and taping it all on the ceiling by
myself? If there is another solution I am interested in it. But I
appreciate your opinions.

It's not as hard as you think... I've done three or four ceilings
alone, and I've got a technique for it down-

Get an 8' step ladder and set it in the middle of the area you're
going to mount the drywall to. Drill a small hole in one end of the
drywall and stick one of those wall mount screws in it (the ones with
the springy clip on the end that won't just rip a big hole out of your
wall when you pull on it) Tie a piece of twine to the end of the
screw, and lift the drywall onto the ladder (be careful not to bust it
in half- if you're having trouble with that, try placing a board under
it the long way to support the sheet so it doesn't bow so much) Get on
the side of the ladder opposite the screw and pull the end down with
the twine (easiest way is to hook it under one of the steps of the
ladder and pull up on the twine) so that it levers the side you're on
up against the ceiling, and screw it in. You'll need at least three
or four screws in, preferably in a couple of studs, to make sure it
doesn't rip right out when you let go. Then go over to the other
side, take out the wall mount screw (you should have enough clearance
to get the clip out as well) and then tack up the corners. This way
takes most of the weight off then you're screwing it in, and works
pretty good. If you don't want to use the screw and twine, just set
the ladder a little off center, and gravity will do the rest. Piece
of cake- and no helper or drywall jack.

I think the best strategy now is to hang the cabinets so the crown is
flush with the ceiling at the low point. If the gap is small enough to
caulk, I'll do that. If the gap is too big, I'll run scribe along it
and bend it to the ceiling. Please let me know if there is something
wrong with this solution.

If you bend it to the ceiling, your joints will be messed up- unless
you're really handy with crown molding. Be careful if you do that.

Also, a follow-up question: does anyone have any experience with using
a high-tack construction adhesive like Lok-Tite to apply molding? It
seems much easier than pre-drilling and nailing, and there are no nail
holes to fill. I don't have a brad nailer. I might buy a
compressor/brad kit if it really seems necessary but I thought I'd ask
about this first. The video demo at the store shows them putting it on
a wall and immediately hanging a brick on the stuff!

And you can use krazy glue to hang an elephant from a crane, too.
Don't get confused by advertising! You don't need a brad nailer,
though- if you're just doing a couple pieces of trim use a hammer and
a nail punch.

Good luck with your project- crown molding can be a real pain in the
rear!