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harry harry is offline
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Default What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools leftoutside

On Feb 23, 1:18*am, nestork wrote:
Harry:

You could probably save yourself some money here.

Oren's recommendation of Loctite's Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver utilizes a
well known chemical reaction between rust and phosphoric acid that
converts the rust into a black compound called Ferric Phosphate or
FePO4.

Here's what Wikipedia says about using Phosphoric acid to convert rust
to Ferric Phosphate:
__________________________________________________ _________________________ ______

'Phosphoric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia'
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid)

Rust removal:
Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application
to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts
reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to black ferric phosphate,
FePO4.

"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in
the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is
more often formulated as a gel, commonly called "naval jelly". It is
sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust
killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even
overhead surfaces.

After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off,
leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid
may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also
be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion
resistance (such protection is also provided by the superficially
similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating
processes).
__________________________________________________ _________________________ ______

So, I took a look at the MSDS for Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver,
and sure enough it's mostly phosphoric acid. *It's got 10 to 30 percent
phosphoric acid in it. *It's got some other stuff in it too, but those
other things are to gel it so that it can be applied to vertical
surfaces and overhead:

'Household Products Database - Health and Safety Information on
Household Products' (http://tinyurl.com/bfjgnv8)

Now, phosphoric acid is commonly used as the active ingredient in toilet
bowl cleaners. *If you just go down to your local home center or
hardware store and look at the toilet bowl cleaners they sell, many of
them will give a phosphoric acid content, or have a warning saying that
it contains phosphoric acid.

Here's a phosphoric acid based toilet bowl cleaner being marketed by a
company called "Iowa Prison Industries":http://www.iaprisonind.com/downloads...osAcidBowl.pdf

If Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver has a phosphoric acid content of
10 to 30 percent, you can use any phosphoric acid toilet bowl cleaner
with a phosphoric acid content between 10 and 30 percent to get
identical results as you'd get with the Loctite product.

Many toilet bowl cleaners will contain hydrochloric acid, but you want
to use phosphoric acid for converting rust into that stable black
compound, ferric phosphate.

Also, EVERY janitorial supply store listed under "Janitorial Equipment &
Supplies" will, in all certainty, sell a phosphoric acid toilet bowl
cleaner you can use on your tools.

Phosphoric acid is a mild acid. *It's about the same strength as CLR.
It won't harm your tools if you leave it on too long, but doing that
won't remove any more rust. *Once the rust turns black, just wash the
remaining phosphoric acid off your tools with water and dry immediately
with a rag or paper towels.

Rubbing oil over the ferric phosphate won't do anything, and it'll only
make dirt stick to your tools. *I would leave out the business about
applying oil to anything because as soon as you use that tool,

the oil
film will get wiped/rubbed off anyway. *Just keep your tools dry.

--
nestork


Well as I am in the UK many of these products are not available
or have different names.
However we do (unfortunately) have Coca Cola.
I have heard it will remove rust. (Phosphoric acid,)
The problem with acid treatments is it can affect cutting edges,
especially on stuff like saws.

WD40 is much faster to apply than rubbing on oil.
Some tools are meant to get wet (eg garden spades)
WD40 has worked fine with me for years, just give
stuff a quick waft when I put it away.
I have a 5litre can of the stuff and a manual refillable aerosol.
BTW, WD40 is made in the US.

You can make your own by mixing kerosine and lubricating oil too.


BTW you Yanks spell sulphur as sulfur.
Why don'tyou spel phosphoric as fosforic?