On 2/14/2013 12:18 PM, Sonny wrote:
After an almost 2 year delay, I'm tackling the entertainment center project, again, with the help of my nephew. We have the main carcass/sections linseed oiled and next week will be spraying them with lacquer. This is the most ambitious project I've ever attempted and I'm not sure if my previous planning has covered all my bases.
Recent thread/posts note I should plan for particular drawer slides, first, prior to making any drawers. I have a cache of Knape & Vogt 14" and 12", Series 8400, drawer slides - http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/8400-s...ies-knape-vogt . I may need help with this installation, though I've installed these on my router bit cabinet and am pleased with the results.
These slides are simple to install. The trick is to make the drawers
exactly the correct width so that they work properly. Generally the
drawer should be 1" narrower than the opening. I typically will set the
cabinet side of the slide on the bottom of the cabinet or on the drawer
divider rail. Stacked drawers, starting from the top, I use plywood
panels to hold the slide level and the correct distance from the bottom
of the cabinet. I cut the panel to the correct next lower height after
installing the slides on both sides of the cabinet. Cut the panel
shorter for each of the remaining height slide positions. Mount the
cabinet side of the slide flush with the front opening. BE SURE that
the slides are mounted flat against the panel, they have to be parallel
to the drawer side slides.
For the drawer I mount the slide flush with the bottom of the drawer and
the front of the drawer. This will raise the drawer about 3/8" from the
bottom of the cabinet side slide when installed. This wastes a small
amount of room but makes installation simple.
A warning here, it is imperative that the cabinet side walls, that the
cabinet slides will be mounted to, to be parallel. You typically only
have 1/32" wiggle room otherwise the drawers will not function smoothly
or at all. So insure that the slides remain parallel to each other and
have the prescribed, usually 1/2" for each side, clearance between the
drawer and the cabinet opening. While this may sound overstated a warped
plywood side panel can cause a world of problems, that goes for drawer
sides too.
I typically have no issues however I have installed hundreds of these
slides and pay attention to construction of the cabinet and drawers to
insure and easy installation. The last thing you want to do is add
shims to correct a problem.
Also, I may need help with the door design/installation, relative to proper hinges to be used. I suppose I need to select the proper hinges, to accommodate the door design. I'll likely use a door frame overlapping the carcass face frame design and I'm not sure what hinges may be best. I don't do this often enough to know what may be best.
If youo are going to have the doors overlay the face frames, the doors
will be larger than the openings I highly recommend Blum Euro stile
hinges. They will not show and are simple to install and adjust.
Typically I build my doors so that there is 1/2" over lap on all sides
including top and bottom. This would call for an 1/2" overlay hinge.
I use these, and buy at least 50in multiples of 50 at a time for the
better pricing. The mount to teh inner edge of the face frame.
http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...g-hinges-b038n
Second project: I've always wanted to make a shaving horse, hand made with only hand tools, direct from the log (green walnut). It's done... finished it yesterday! Took a week to make it, a lot more work than I thought it would be. This log and parts were hard to split. I suppose I may need to tweak it, later, as the wood will dry and shrink, over time. It's pegged together, for easy disassembly, transport and reassembly, if need be. It was a fun project, with a few challenges. http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...7632768367830/
Sonny