After an almost 2 year delay, I'm tackling the entertainment center project, again, with the help of my nephew. We have the main carcass/sections linseed oiled and next week will be spraying them with lacquer. This is the most ambitious project I've ever attempted and I'm not sure if my previous planning has covered all my bases.

Recent thread/posts note I should plan for particular drawer slides, first, prior to making any drawers. I have a cache of Knape & Vogt 14" and 12", Series 8400, drawer slides - http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/8400-s...ies-knape-vogt . I may need help with this installation, though I've installed these on my router bit cabinet and am pleased with the results.

Also, I may need help with the door design/installation, relative to proper hinges to be used. I suppose I need to select the proper hinges, to accommodate the door design. I'll likely use a door frame overlapping the carcass face frame design and I'm not sure what hinges may be best. I don't do this often enough to know what may be best.

Second project: I've always wanted to make a shaving horse, hand made with only hand tools, direct from the log (green walnut). It's done... finished it yesterday! Took a week to make it, a lot more work than I thought it would be. This log and parts were hard to split. I suppose I may need to tweak it, later, as the wood will dry and shrink, over time. It's pegged together, for easy disassembly, transport and reassembly, if need be. It was a fun project, with a few challenges. http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...7632768367830/

Sonny

On 2/14/2013 12:18 PM, Sonny wrote:
After an almost 2 year delay, I'm tackling the entertainment center project, again, with the help of my nephew. We have the main carcass/sections linseed oiled and next week will be spraying them with lacquer. This is the most ambitious project I've ever attempted and I'm not sure if my previous planning has covered all my bases.

Recent thread/posts note I should plan for particular drawer slides, first, prior to making any drawers. I have a cache of Knape & Vogt 14" and 12", Series 8400, drawer slides - http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/8400-s...ies-knape-vogt . I may need help with this installation, though I've installed these on my router bit cabinet and am pleased with the results.


These slides are simple to install. The trick is to make the drawers
exactly the correct width so that they work properly. Generally the
drawer should be 1" narrower than the opening. I typically will set the
cabinet side of the slide on the bottom of the cabinet or on the drawer
divider rail. Stacked drawers, starting from the top, I use plywood
panels to hold the slide level and the correct distance from the bottom
of the cabinet. I cut the panel to the correct next lower height after
installing the slides on both sides of the cabinet. Cut the panel
shorter for each of the remaining height slide positions. Mount the
cabinet side of the slide flush with the front opening. BE SURE that
the slides are mounted flat against the panel, they have to be parallel
to the drawer side slides.

For the drawer I mount the slide flush with the bottom of the drawer and
the front of the drawer. This will raise the drawer about 3/8" from the
bottom of the cabinet side slide when installed. This wastes a small
amount of room but makes installation simple.

A warning here, it is imperative that the cabinet side walls, that the
cabinet slides will be mounted to, to be parallel. You typically only
have 1/32" wiggle room otherwise the drawers will not function smoothly
or at all. So insure that the slides remain parallel to each other and
have the prescribed, usually 1/2" for each side, clearance between the
drawer and the cabinet opening. While this may sound overstated a warped
plywood side panel can cause a world of problems, that goes for drawer
sides too.

I typically have no issues however I have installed hundreds of these
slides and pay attention to construction of the cabinet and drawers to
insure and easy installation. The last thing you want to do is add
shims to correct a problem.





Also, I may need help with the door design/installation, relative to proper hinges to be used. I suppose I need to select the proper hinges, to accommodate the door design. I'll likely use a door frame overlapping the carcass face frame design and I'm not sure what hinges may be best. I don't do this often enough to know what may be best.

If youo are going to have the doors overlay the face frames, the doors
will be larger than the openings I highly recommend Blum Euro stile
hinges. They will not show and are simple to install and adjust.
Typically I build my doors so that there is 1/2" over lap on all sides
including top and bottom. This would call for an 1/2" overlay hinge.

I use these, and buy at least 50in multiples of 50 at a time for the
better pricing. The mount to teh inner edge of the face frame.


http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...g-hinges-b038n









Second project: I've always wanted to make a shaving horse, hand made with only hand tools, direct from the log (green walnut). It's done... finished it yesterday! Took a week to make it, a lot more work than I thought it would be. This log and parts were hard to split. I suppose I may need to tweak it, later, as the wood will dry and shrink, over time. It's pegged together, for easy disassembly, transport and reassembly, if need be. It was a fun project, with a few challenges. http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...7632768367830/

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
After an almost 2 year delay, I'm tackling the entertainment center
project, again, with the help of my nephew. We have the main
carcass/sections linseed oiled and next week will be spraying them
with lacquer. This is the most ambitious project I've ever attempted
and I'm not sure if my previous planning has covered all my bases.

Recent thread/posts note I should plan for particular drawer slides,
first, prior to making any drawers. I have a cache of Knape & Vogt
14" and 12", Series 8400, drawer slides -
http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/8400-s...ies-knape-vogt . I may
need help with this installation, though I've installed these on my
router bit cabinet and am pleased with the results.

Do the same as you did, NP. Just assure that the case parts are level and
where you want them.
__________

Also, I may need help with the door design/installation, relative to
proper hinges to be used. I suppose I need to select the proper
hinges, to accommodate the door design. I'll likely use a door frame
overlapping the carcass face frame design and I'm not sure what
hinges may be best. I don't do this often enough to know what may be
best.

I've always liked these hinges...
http://woodworker.com/sc-hinge-38-in...su-234-001.asp

With these, the door overlays the frame by 1/2". You'd probably want that
same 1/2" on the other three sides too which means the doors need to be 1"
wider and higher than the opening.

They are strong, easy to install and adjust (but not much adjustment
available), come in a variety of finishes and are inexpensive to boot. I
particularly like that they wrap around the frame, stronger than screwing to
the face of the frame. There are many other styles at the same vendor. You
used to be able to get them at HD/Lowes but what they have now are
imports...not bad but not as good as the Amerock.
_____________

Second project: I've always wanted to make a shaving horse, hand
made with only hand tools, direct from the log (green walnut). It's
done... finished it yesterday!

Congrats, good job! But walnut?!!!


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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I've always liked these hinges...

http://woodworker.com/sc-hinge-38-in...su-234-001.asp


Whoa dude! Them are some old school hinges baby. I would only use those if I were matching a kitchen from the 50's.

I would use any of the Face Frame hinges from this page. http://www.woodcraft.com/category/10...le-hinges.aspx They come in different sizes depending on how much overlay. The more expensive essentially the more adjustable. I like ones that come apart easy so you can take the doors off when needed. Also makes it easier to install by measuring in the first (upper) hinge and just attache the FF part. Then hang the door and attach the bottom. Also easy to fabricate. Just drill a forstner hole set in the right amount from the edge, pop in the hinge, square it up, mark and drill the holes and you are off. Some of them come with pop in inserts so you knock the screws in with a hammer and only need to screw them if you want to take them off.

On Thursday, February 14, 2013 1:08:46 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Thanks Leon.... excellent tips and advice. I'll certainly make sure the carcass sides are parallel. I suppose I should have included, I'll have only 2 drawers, one drawer at the top of each section on each side of the middle section, of the base unit - http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...in/photostream

If I need more drawers, I think I can easily install others, later.

The proposed drawers will be concealed by doors on the front. If my carcass sides aren't parallel, shimming for 2 drawers shouldn't be too much trouble.

Sonny

On 2/14/2013 6:27 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 1:08:46 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Thanks Leon.... excellent tips and advice. I'll certainly make sure the carcass sides are parallel. I suppose I should have included, I'll have only 2 drawers, one drawer at the top of each section on each side of the middle section, of the base unit - http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...in/photostream

If I need more drawers, I think I can easily install others, later.

The proposed drawers will be concealed by doors on the front. If my carcass sides aren't parallel, shimming for 2 drawers shouldn't be too much trouble.


Looking good ... curves always take things out of the ordinary, and this
is no exception. I really like the design.


--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Thursday, February 14, 2013 1:30:47 PM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:

Thanks DadiOH. I should have mentioned I prefer the hinges not show.

The shaving horse - I didn't have another log to work with. This log was a limb from a tree that was cleared from the yard of an old house we tore down at the farm. It is the tree to the left of the left dozer in this pic - http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...in/photostream - The trunk of the tree had nails and fencing imbedded in it and other defects, so it wasn't worth milling. We cut this tree for firewood and 2 logs for shaving horses, but I had one of those shaving horse logs milled. Part of that tree is still available, so I may do something with that other part, also.

Sonny

On Thursday, February 14, 2013 2:14:32 PM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Thanks Sonoma. I like those hinges, also. I've never installed these types of hinges, but I'm a quick learner, sometimes.

Sonny

On Thursday, February 14, 2013 6:31:07 PM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:
Looking good ... curves always take things out of the ordinary, and this is no exception. I really like the design.

Thanks Karl. Not quite my design, though. I saw an internet pic and pretty much copied it, as best I could figure. To the pic design, I added the 2 outer curved sections. I didn't want a typical(?) square-ends look. Like a good fetching woman, the mo curves, the mo betta!

Sonny

On 2/14/13 6:27 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 1:08:46 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Thanks Leon.... excellent tips and advice. I'll certainly make sure
the carcass sides are parallel. I suppose I should have included,
I'll have only 2 drawers, one drawer at the top of each section on
each side of the middle section, of the base unit -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...in/photostream


That's a great looking project. The wood looks very nice... real warm
and inviting.
What color are you painting it? :-D


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thursday, February 14, 2013 9:29:41 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
That's a great looking project. The wood looks very nice... real warm and inviting. What color are you painting it? :-D

Regal green, with apple red doors and trim.

I think I have discovered a problem. Since the carcass had been sitting, unfinished, for so long, the cherry has darkened. Any new applications will be a different shade, as I've discovered with the base's kick plate molding I recently applied. I may have to allow future applications to sit a while, for them to change color/shade, before oiling and finishing.

With some steam bending of parts, I may test some fuming (ammonia) to see if this may speed up the darkening process. The kick plate molding didn't darken by steaming alone, though I didn't expect it to, but I didn't anticipate the shades would be so different. The different shades don't look good and I don't want to tone the lacquer finish for the remaining parts.

Sonny

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I've always liked these hinges...

http://woodworker.com/sc-hinge-38-in...su-234-001.asp


Whoa dude! Them are some old school hinges baby. I would only use
those if I were matching a kitchen from the 50's.

Yeah, I know...everybody glommed onto the "euro" hinges. And euro
(frameless) cases. And ROS. Been a while since I looked at "euro" hinges,
are they still made of pot metal?

As you may discern, I don't care for any of the above; fortunately, I only
make stuff for me (and wife) so can use retro hinges. Re ROS, I live in
fear that my Porter Cable 505 finish sander will expire before I do. Why
they stopped making it I'll never understand, best finish sander ever made.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I've always liked these hinges...

http://woodworker.com/sc-hinge-38-in...su-234-001.asp


Whoa dude! Them are some old school hinges baby. I would only use
those if I were matching a kitchen from the 50's.

Yeah, I know...everybody glommed onto the "euro" hinges. And euro
(frameless) cases. And ROS. Been a while since I looked at "euro" hinges,
are they still made of pot metal?

I use mostly "retro" door hinges on my own stuff also. Do you also yell at
the kids on your lawn?

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I've always liked these hinges...

http://woodworker.com/sc-hinge-38-in...su-234-001.asp


Whoa dude! Them are some old school hinges baby. I would only use
those if I were matching a kitchen from the 50's.

Yeah, I know...everybody glommed onto the "euro" hinges. And euro
(frameless) cases. And ROS. Been a while since I looked at "euro"
hinges, are they still made of pot metal?

I use mostly "retro" door hinges on my own stuff also. Do you also
yell at the kids on your lawn?

Nope, they stay home. I do chase the neighbor dogs home (they have between
6 and 10, most small yappers). And their chickens, turkeys, guinea hens and
(previously) peacock. I no longer have to worry about their pigs though, he
castrated them - the males - and turned them loose. That means fresh meat
(sows) for the wild boars.

Besides, we don't really have a "lawn"...just 10 acres of mixed weeds

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 02/15/2013 05:14 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 9:29:41 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
That's a great looking project. The wood looks very nice... real warm and inviting. What color are you painting it? :-D

Regal green, with apple red doors and trim.

I think I have discovered a problem. Since the carcass had been sitting, unfinished, for so long, the cherry has darkened. Any new applications will be a different shade, as I've discovered with the base's kick plate molding I recently applied. I may have to allow future applications to sit a while, for them to change color/shade, before oiling and finishing.

With some steam bending of parts, I may test some fuming (ammonia) to see if this may speed up the darkening process. The kick plate molding didn't darken by steaming alone, though I didn't expect it to, but I didn't anticipate the shades would be so different. The different shades don't look good and I don't want to tone the lacquer finish for the remaining parts.

Sonny

Direct sunlight will greatly speed up the darkening process.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 2/15/2013 6:14 AM, Sonny wrote:

I think I have discovered a problem. Since the carcass had been sitting, unfinished, for so long, the cherry has darkened.

Made the mistake once of using some cherry scraps for inlay on a walnut
table top .... six years later and the both are almost the same shade.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/14/2013 6:27 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 1:08:46 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Thanks Leon.... excellent tips and advice. I'll certainly make sure the carcass sides are parallel. I suppose I should have included, I'll have only 2 drawers, one drawer at the top of each section on each side of the middle section, of the base unit - http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...in/photostream

If I need more drawers, I think I can easily install others, later.

The proposed drawers will be concealed by doors on the front. If my carcass sides aren't parallel, shimming for 2 drawers shouldn't be too much trouble.

Sonny



Oh good Lord! After seeing what you are building I don't think you are
going to have any issues at all. You are well past the learning stage!
Great job so far.

On 2/15/2013 6:14 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 9:29:41 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
That's a great looking project. The wood looks very nice... real warm and inviting. What color are you painting it? :-D

Regal green, with apple red doors and trim.

I think I have discovered a problem. Since the carcass had been sitting, unfinished, for so long, the cherry has darkened. Any new applications will be a different shade, as I've discovered with the base's kick plate molding I recently applied. I may have to allow future applications to sit a while, for them to change color/shade, before oiling and finishing.

With some steam bending of parts, I may test some fuming (ammonia) to see if this may speed up the darkening process. The kick plate molding didn't darken by steaming alone, though I didn't expect it to, but I didn't anticipate the shades would be so different. The different shades don't look good and I don't want to tone the lacquer finish for the remaining parts.

Sonny



IIRC cherry only gets so dark and then remains pretty much the same.
Give it a few years and all should be right again. The two different
shades will be unique for a relatively short while. I don't think I
would try to fix it.

On 2/15/2013 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I've always liked these hinges...

http://woodworker.com/sc-hinge-38-in...su-234-001.asp


Whoa dude! Them are some old school hinges baby. I would only use
those if I were matching a kitchen from the 50's.

Yeah, I know...everybody glommed onto the "euro" hinges. And euro
(frameless) cases. And ROS. Been a while since I looked at "euro" hinges,
are they still made of pot metal?

Hardly, Blum hinges are a high quality hinge with a life time warranty.
Yes I have had to ask for free replacements but then again I have
probably installed in excess of 500 of these hinges. Not to mention
that they can be adjusted up and down, in and out, and left and right
after installation.

Yeah, I know...everybody glommed onto the "euro" hinges. And euro

(frameless) cases. And ROS. Been a while since I looked at "euro" hinges,

are they still made of pot metal?


Yeah, I don't like the frameless for myself but probably would if I was building cabs for a living. Regarding pot metal, I am pretty sure if you buy the cheapest woodraft brand you can get that, you do get what you pay for. I don't use them often enough to know what brands are best but the Blum recommendation seems like a safe one.

On 2/15/2013 11:59 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Yeah, I know...everybody glommed onto the "euro" hinges. And euro

(frameless) cases. And ROS. Been a while since I looked at "euro" hinges,

are they still made of pot metal?


Yeah, I don't like the frameless for myself but probably would if I was building cabs for a living. Regarding pot metal, I am pretty sure if you buy the cheapest woodraft brand you can get that, you do get what you pay for. I don't use them often enough to know what brands are best but the Blum recommendation seems like a safe one.



Concerning the Blum hinges, the particular inexpensive ones that I buy
50 at a time, I am amazed that they are can be bought for about $1 each.
There are several parts in each one, 9 IIRC, and this is all stamped
steel. And NO slop. Then they are stupid simple to install and adjust.
I have been using this type hing for 20+ years and have only had 2
hinges to fail. The ones that failed were Blum and discontinued. Blum
replaced the hinge with it's replacement +2 more to match the rest on
that particular door. If you haven't used them they well worth a close look