Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Wade
fred wrote:
Thanks for the details Andy, the one I look after has just developed the
same fault, H/W only when C/H is already on, I'll make sure I have the
diaphragm when I get round to looking at it.
You get those symptoms when the diaphragm starts to fail; the arm moves
enough to give partial operation of the diverter valve, but not enough
to activate the DHW microswitch. IME it deteriorates rapidly after that
and you'll soon have no HW at all, even if the burner is already firing
for CH.
--
Andy
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Hi - I'm a newbie but this is exactly the problem I've got. when I pull the diverter valve manually with enough force, it reaches the microswitch. But when I just allow the hot water to do it, the pin from the diaphragm doesn't seem strong enough to overcome the natural resistance to push the fulcrum hard enough to reach the microswitch. I don't know if the natural resistance is too high, or the diaphragm is knackered and doesn't push hard enough. I've ordered a new diaphragm from ebay for 4 quid - how do I replace it? THere's no instructions in the service manual. Do I have to drain the water first? I hoped it would only be domestic hot water running through that diaphragm because it's after the diverter valve isn't it? So I'm hoping I can replace it and just not turn on the hot water till I'm done! From the diagram I imagine I have to undo the 6 screws and just replace the rubber disk. Is that right?
THanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!