On 12/3/2012 6:16 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/2/2012 9:35 PM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 12/2/2012 6:06 PM, Bill wrote:
I started a new thread for this project.
I have been thinking more about a face frame and cabinet
doors for my project.
I am gaining the impression that a good quality face frame is
typically
make out of pieces of genuine solid wood even when the rest of the
cabinet carcase may be made from man-made materials. Is this the way
that you would proceed?
More often than not, absolutely correct. There are many valid
methods to
skin that cat, and we all have our favorites.
Still have that Sketchup?
Here's one way to make a solid wood face frame (I use pocket hole
joinery for the rails and stiles in all cases), and how the face frame
and casework go together:
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0
Here's a face frame only model that can be re-sized:
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0
Mucho-Thanks!
If I understand the diagram, you have grooves along the backs of each of
the rails and stiles of the face frame. That is a marvelous way to
increase the gluing surface, if it fits! Note to self: Make sure the
grooves fit over all 4 of the outer faces of the carcase.
I assume that you use dominos where the rail and stiles meet (besides
pocket holes)? Without tenons, I can see that one could trim the
lengths for a perfect fit prior to assembly.
You've given me lots of good ideas to borrow from!
Bill
Bill the cabinets that I have been making lately, the last 14 cabinets
in the past 2 years actually have front and back face frames. I did not
use screws on the face frames but did use Domino's for the front and or
a combination of lap joint and domino on the back face frames. All face
frames mate with the carcase via dadoes in the mating sides.
You mentioned that this all has to fit the outer faces of the carcase
and that is very true. There is nothing wrong with using pocket hole
screws except with my back face frames the screws would show from the
front side. Additionally when you use pocket hole screws you are pretty
much locked into the where every thing fits when it comes time to mate
the carcase and the face frames. With Domino's you can use a wider
mortise setting so that you have a little wiggle room. Basically I dry
fit the carcase and also dry fit the face frame on top to insure it will
all fit together. I then remove the face frame and glue it together,
place it back on top of the of the dry fit carcase using waxed paper in
between to keep them from sticking to each other.
Let me see if I understand what you are saying. If you were going to
make two FFs, you would glue and fit them to a dry-fit carcase, and then
glue (or pocket hole screw) the carcase and the FFs together the next day?
Close ;~) No screws at all. The carcase parts are fitted with dadoes
also. I glue the front face frames together on the dry fit carcase,
turn all that over and do the same with the back face frame. Then I
pull the face frames off, front and back, glue the dado of the carcase
sides, top, and bottom, and glue all of that to the front and back face
frame dadoes at one time. I usually use 12~16 clamps to sandwich all of
that together.
With slightly over
sized mortices for the Domino's I get a little wiggle room, 1/8" or so.
While this does not seem like a lot of wiggle it is often a great help
especially when a single cabinet may have as many as 16 dadoes in the
carcase and both face frames that all have to come together.
Typically the wiggle room aids in assembly and disappears once all the
pieces are in place and the clamps have every thing fitting as it should
be while the glue sets.
It is imperative that that your measurements and cuts are accurate and
where they need to be.
It occurred to me today that I either need pre-dimensioned wood, or need
to hand or machine-joint my Cherry wood that I haven't got yet.
I have collected quite a few hand planes.
Yes you absolutely want stock that is precisely the size you think it is.