On Sep 12, 8:09*pm, "David" wrote:
Lived in this house 35 years. *Now wife needs a handrail to get up/down
front steps. *Planning on going with metal railing, 36" high.. Posts are 2x2
with a square bottom flange with four holes for bolts. *The manufacturer
recommends 3/8" x 4" expansion anchors for attaching posts to the concrete
steps.

The problem: *A few years ago I overlaid the steps and sidewalk with
decorative concrete "stones" which are 11 x 14 x 3 1/2" thick. *Two layers.
So, the concrete steps are 7" below the surface of the stones. *The stones
are held in place with construction adhesive, which has been satisfactory so
far. *But definitely will not hold the stones securely enough to support a
handrail. * I could use 12" long expansion anchors to penetrate to the
concrete steps but they are 3/4" diameter and I'm concerned about the "swiss
cheese" effect on the concrete. *Alternately, I could use 5/8" x 10" anchors
with only 3" in the step concrete, which would probably have enough holding
power and slightly less "swiss cheese".

What are the other options for securing the posts, if any? *I would be
especially interested the approach others have successfully used in a
similar situation.

Depending on the material used in the manufacture of the railing...I'd
be a bit suspect of the strength & stiffness of a 2x2 with square
bottom flange.

Getting a railing to perform using a bolted flange connection is not
easy/
A railing needs substantial anchoring force, like a 1" x 1" solid
square stock embedded into the concrete.
A square bottom flange would have to be pretty stout to do the job.

Look at the base of a bolted light pole. The pole / base plate joint
is heavily gusseted.

Use 3/8" stainless threaded rod, it's not expensive at Mcmaster-Carr.
Get a couple 6' pieces and you'll have plenty of length to reach into
the concrete.

I'd recommend Rapid Set epoxy adhesive.... cheaper than Simpson and
uses a standard caulking gun

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

Help prevent damage to your brick overlay by "debonding" the threaded
rod where it passes through the brick.
Wrap the threaded rod with tape in the zone where it will attempt to
bond to the brick. Using a substantial rod length will allow the rod
to anchor into the concrete. The tape will prevent bonding to brick &
lessen the likeihood that the the railing anchors could pull the brick
loose.

cheers
Bob

PS I wrote my reply before I saw 's post. I
would concur with his comments.