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Ed Huntress Ed Huntress is offline
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Default From Railroad to Bed Rail

On Wed, 16 May 2012 18:41:47 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2012 14:38:29 -0700, David Harmon
wrote:

On Wed, 16 May 2012 08:54:55 -0700 in rec.crafts.metalworking, Carla
Fong wrote,
In case you ever wondered why your drill won't go through that angle
iron you salvaged from an old bed frame or street sign:
Once I tried to cut some bed frame with a reciprocating (Sawzall-type)
saw with a "metal cutting" blade. Fortunately, it was my friend's saw.


If you get a look at the alloy makeup for train rails, you'll see why
that is. It's potentially quite hard -- carbon runs up to 0.80% by the
ASTM standard, and it contains manganese (1%), which augments the
hardening effect of the carbon. As-rolled, it comes in around 400 Bhn
(Rc 43). It may actually be harder when re-rolled, because the thinner
sections generally cause more work-hardening.

On top of that, older-spec rails can contain relatively high levels of
sulfur, phosphorus, and silicon. You get some weird microstructures
when you heat that and re-roll it.

Rolled as rails, the steel is intended to have a totally pearlitic
structure. It's hard and strong but other properties, such as
elongation, can be lousy. So it's likely to be nasty to cut, a bugger
to weld, very hard but with very little ductility.

'Great for a railroad. Not bad for a bedframe. Otherwise, IMO, it's
junk.


Works pretty good for small anvils. I use it for knife making anvils and
small parts.


Well, sections of rail, yes. That's my anvil, too. Rails are rolled
and quenched to produce a 100% pearlite structure.

But bedframe angle? I don't know how that's treated. I know it's been
a PITA to work with when I've used it for projects.

--
Ed Huntress