On Apr 7, 9:54*pm, "Pete S" wrote:
I think there are a lot of people who buy their lumber S2S or better at a
store and then work with those boards. *Assuming that you select only the
good straight *stock before you plunk down the big bucks, *you already have
"jointed" and planed stock.
If that is the case for you, then you could expect that the board is pretty
flat and not twisted. *Then you don't need a wide jointer. *But you would
still need a wider planer if reducing the thickness of an already good board
for some particular purpose.

* On the other hand, if you work with *a lot of rough sawn lumber, as I do,
you are working with twisted, cupped and bowed stuff real often. *I could
really use a *jointer wider than my 6 inch in this case. *But come people
have told me that, even then,
they simply cut boards down to fit the jointer and glue up for wider stock.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------

I you are buying finished hardwood at the big box stores, and you buy
much of it, you can easily justify a planer and jointer. I was
finishing a project some time ago and needed to run to HD to buy a
piece of red oak. It was a nice clear piece of 1x6, 8'. Then I made
the mistake of figuring the price per board foot - $7.50. That
stings when you buy most of your Oak under $2.

RonB